wine review: O’Rourke Twisted Pine Chardonnay 2020

April 2023

The diversity of the growing conditions is remarkable throughout the Okanagan Valley. You see it, feel it, and taste it when travelling from one end to the other. The steep hilly lakeside vineyards lined by evergreens throughout Lake Country in the north to the sandy lake valley with cacti and tumble weeds in the south and a multitude of unique terroirs in between, the Okanagan Valley is as diverse as it is vast, and the wines they’re producing throughout are also diverse both technically and stylistically.

Lake Country is a brief half hour drive north of Kelowna and offers a unique setting for northerly latitude and high altitude wine production. Producers such as 50th Parallel (their winery/vineyards are literally on the 50th parallel) and O’Rourke Family Vineyards, where Nikki Callaway is producing their small production premium wines, showcases the style of wines this northern Okanagan Sub GI region is producing.

Lake Country Sub GI is a young region and newly minted Sub GI, but they’ve made great progress in identifying the varietals that shine there, namely Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Riesling. Combining the northern latitude, high altitude, associated intense acidity, with the benefit of moderating lake effect, the vineyards in Lake Country are well situated to handle the heat the Okanagan is experiencing more and more with every decade whilst retaining that refreshing acidity this northern Sub GI is becoming increasingly known for.

O’Rourke Family Estate winery, dining, event space, and lodging, was designed by renowned San Francisco-based architect Howard Backen. O’Rourke Family Estate is situated high up in Lake Country featuring 300 acres of breathtaking offering views of the vineyards, Okanagan Lake, and hilly lakeside mountains. The property features 110 acres of vines, 300 metres of winding tunnels and 12,000 square feet of caves that provide ideal conditions for storing and aging their wines. One stand our wine is their Twisted Pine Chardonnay that I had the pleasure of tasting when I toured the facilities in fall 2022.

O’Rourke Twisted Pine Chardonnay 2020 14% abv – $80 – Sourced from Block 4, by the Estate’s ‘twisted Pine tree’, where four clones of Chardonnay form this block. The nose shows honey, nutty characteristics, hay, and some tropical fruit. Medium-full bodied with great texture, its elegant and layered, showing impressive complexity for such a youthful vineyard. Keep your eyes on this one over the next decade, it’s destined to become a Lake Country icon. Tasted Fall 2022. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca