Wine review: Renato Keber Zegla Friulano Riserva 2015 Collio DOC Italy

Ottawa, Canada

September 2023:

Matt’s review:

Renato Keber is a renowned winery located in northeastern Italy’s Collio DOC wine region along the Slovenian border. If you’re not familiar with this region or producer, take note as they produce some of the most complex and sought after white wines in Italy making them difficult to source given the high demand and relatively low production. This is precisely why Collio DOC might be the best wine region you’ve yet to discover.

Collio DOC is a relatively small yet geographically diverse region, with the majestic Julian Alps (and Austria) to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south. Driving around you’ll find yourself crisscrossing the region’s shared border with Slovenia, adding an intriguing cross-cultural element which is evident when visiting and speaking with different generations as they share their tales from the region’s complex 20th century history.

Zegla Friulano is made from the Friulano grape variety, which is native to the Friuli-Venezia Giulia region. This white wine is known for its characteristically aromatic and fruity profile but it’s the wines outstanding structure, texture, and ageability that make it such an interesting wine to experience. Sourced from the Cru vineyard, Zegla, with its marl and sandstone “Ponca” soils which are renowned for imparting distinct minerality and salinity along with exceptional structure and complexity in the wines. These characteristics are quite typical throughout Collio and certainly exemplified in this Cru vineyard site.

The 2015 vintage of Zegla Friulano was released after six years in the cellar. Although I’m sure it still would have been wonderful with half that time, it’s indicative of the impressive quality that allows this wine to easily age for a decade, perhaps two+, revealing its power, elegance, and proud Collio provenance which is arguably unparalleled.

When tasted in May 2023, Zegla Friulano Riserva 2015 showed complex aromas of apricot and orchard fruits, honey, almond, and balsamic notes. The palate was medium plus bodied with more honey and nutty flavours and impressive minerality persisting on the finish. This is a serious wine representative of many of the other high quality wines the region is renowned for. Although not broadly known outside of Italy and neighbouring European countries, unlike the storied regions of Tuscany or Piedmont, but that is certain to change as more international wine enthusiasts experience what those in the know have been appreciating for decades. This is a wine I’d recommend enjoying over the next decade and following its evolution which is sure to impress. Tasted May 2023. 94-96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca