Category: Canadian Wine

wine review: Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA Nestled in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Kirby Estate is positioning itself among Canada’s top-tier producers. Proprietors Scott and Maria Kirby have spared no effort in showcasing the full potential of their distinctive K-shaped estate vineyards (as depicted on their label). Supported by renowned viticulturalist Craig Wismer and winemaker Matt Smith, their philosophy is clear: precision farming, meticulous selection, and an uncompromising pursuit of quality. The 2020 Signature Merlot represents the pinnacle of their craft. Sourced from 18-year-old vines planted in sandy loam soils, the grapes were handpicked in two lots (October 24 and November 7) at 23+ and 25+ brix, highlighting both patience and confidence in the growing season. After cold soaking, wild yeast fermentation, and 20 months in French oak (new and neutral), the wine was bottled unfiltered in July 2022 at 15.7% ABV. This alone speaks volumes about the exceptional ripening achieved in this cool-climate region. Signature Merlot 2020 is a deep ruby colour with a subtle garnet rim. Fragrant and layered, offering sweet plum, blackberry, blueberry pie, cassis, and dark cherry, supported by savoury herbs, graphite, and crushed stone. A vibrant expression of both vintage ripeness and vineyard precision. Silky and powerful with exceptional texture. Velvety tannins frame concentrated dark fruit and spice, gradually unfolding into a long, graceful finish. Despite its 15.7% power, the wine remains refreshing and balanced, with cool-climate acidity adding lift and elegance to the full-bodied intensity. A defining expression of Niagara Merlot: rich, structured, and beautifully composed, capturing remarkable ripeness while staying true to its origin. The 2020 Signature Merlot is a testament to what can be achieved when ambition, talent, and terroir align. The finest Niagara Merlot I’ve tasted. Enjoy now with a 2 hour decant or cellar and enjoy over the next 15–20 years. Tasted November 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV

From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA

The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025

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Hester Creek Character Red 2023, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada – available at LCBO in August!

In an era where value matters more than ever, discovering a wine that over-delivers is a gift to the table, and Character Red 2023 is exactly that. This thoughtfully assembled blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah, and Italian-clone Merlot captures the warmth and energy of the 2023 vintage, one of the most sun-drenched in Okanagan history, with poise and purpose. Deep ruby in the glass, it opens with an evocative bouquet of dark plum, blackberry compote, desert sage, and a graphite minerality that echoes the stony soils of the Golden Mile Bench. On the palate, it punches well above its weight—bold yet balanced, with ripe fruit, gentle spice, and fine tannins carrying the flavour through to a clean, satisfying finish. Versatile, food-friendly, and full of heart, this gem is both an introduction to the serious potential of this sub-region and a reminder that great wine doesn’t always need to come at great cost. Whether poured beside a sizzling summer BBQ, a cozy winter stew, or a rustic spread of charcuterie, Character Red more than lives up to its name. One of the finest value reds on offer from the Golden Mile Bench. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Tasted July 2025. 90+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Benjamin Bridge Brut 2019

This impressive Blanc de Blancs from Nova Scotia's Gaspereau Valley captures the essence of cool-climate Chardonnay with both precision and charm. Inspired by grower Champagne, the 2019 Brut was crafted with care and intention—aged in 600L French demi-muids and allowed to undergo full malolactic fermentation, enhancing its texture and layered complexity. The nose is vibrant and expressive, offering an elegant medley of honeyed stone fruit, orchard pear, chamomile tea, and freshly baked brioche. On the palate, it’s electric—brisk acidity is balanced by a creamy, persistent mousse that amplifies the wine's core of juicy stone fruit and mineral depth. The four years of lees aging lend a refined autolytic character, with subtle pastry and citrus oil tones that echo long after each sip. An impressive sparkling wine that holds its own among top-tier Blanc de Blancs, this bottle is a testament to the world-class potential of Nova Scotia terroir for crafting fine traditional method sparkling wines. Drink now or cellar over the next 5+ years for added nuance.  Tasted July 2025. 93 points - Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV – June 30, 2025

Today on CTV Morning Live (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from all across Canada. These are wines which sommeliers across Canada and around the world are raving about the high quality and world-class nature that these wines have, similar to some of the finest wines from more storied wine regions in the world.  But nowadays you don’t need to look far in Canada to find exceptional quality wines that are both locally produced and absolutely delicious! As we prepare to celebrate Canada Day this is one of the best times to explore and enjoy Canadian wine as we’ve come a long way over the past half century and we’ve firmly secured our spot as a great wine-making nation!

wine review: York Vineyards 2018 Brut, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

York Vineyards, Canada’s first dedicated sparkling wine house, delivers an exceptional traditional method cuvée with their 2018 Brut — a masterclass in precision, patience, and expressive winemaking. Crafted entirely from 100% Pinot Gris, it was aged an impressive 60 months on the lees, with one-third raised in 500L amphora and the remaining two-thirds in French oak, offering a layered and complex aromatic and flavour profile. This is a serious and thrilling Canadian sparkling wine, crafted with uncompromising attention to detail. A standout bottle that confirms York Vineyards’ bold vision for Canadian sparkling wine at the highest level. Tasted June 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves

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