Kirby Estate continues to demonstrate why the western reaches of Niagara-on-the-Lake, bordering the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, are capable of producing some of Canada's most compelling Merlot. Here, warm days, moderating lake influences, and mineral-rich lacustrine silt and sandy loam soils consistently deliver full phenolic ripeness while preserving the vibrant acidity that gives Niagara's finest wines their unmistakable freshness. It is a terroir uniquely suited to crafting both expressive, age-worthy red wines and elegant, mineral-driven Chardonnay. The 2022 Estate Merlot reflects the remarkable concentration of this exceptionally low-yielding vintage. Aromas of graphite, crushed raspberry and a medley of dark berries mingle with hints of menthol, sweet baking spice and wet stone minerality. The palate is fresh, energetic and beautifully composed, balancing ripe dark fruit with lively acidity and finely integrated tannins. Nineteen months in a combination of new and neutral Burgundian oak provides subtle complexity without overshadowing the purity of the fruit. The finish is long, refreshing and distinctly mineral, leaving an impression of elegance rather than weight. While the monumental 2020 Signature Merlot showcased just how profound Niagara Merlot can become in an exceptional vintage, the 2022 Estate Merlot offers a more restrained and classically proportioned expression, emphasizing precision, freshness and site transparency. It is another outstanding example of the remarkable quality emerging from Kirby Estate. Tasted July 2026. 95 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA
Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 While Niagara-on-the-Lake has earned its reputation for producing expressive, ripe red wines, it shines just as brightly with medium to full-bodied cool-climate Chardonnay. At Kirby Estate, the combination of mineral-rich lacustrine silt soils, warm days, cool nights and the moderating influence of Lake Ontario consistently yields fruit that achieves exceptional phenolic ripeness while retaining the vibrant natural acidity that defines the region's finest white wines. The exceptionally low-yielding 2022 vintage has produced a Chardonnay of remarkable concentration, elegance and precision. Aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear and white orchard fruit are layered with delicate baking spice, subtle hints of toasted brioche and pronounced seashell minerality. The palate is silky and beautifully textured, the result of full malolactic fermentation and twenty months in second-fill Damy Vosges Burgundian oak, yet remains vibrant and energetic. Ripe orchard fruit, citrus and crushed stone unfold across the palate before giving way to a long, mineral-driven finish that lingers with freshness and finesse. The restrained élevage allows the exceptional fruit and distinctive terroir to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay that recalls the balance and understated elegance of fine white Burgundy while remaining unmistakably Niagara. Another beautifully composed wine from Kirby Estate that reinforces the estate's growing reputation as one of Niagara's premier ultra-premium producers. Drink: 2026-2036+. Tasted July 2026. 94 Points Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: 2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13% ABV
2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay recalls the elegance of fine white Burgundy, opening with yellow apple, white peach and delicate white blossoms before revealing hints of almond croissant, wet limestone and seashell minerality. The palate is both creamy and precise, balancing ripe orchard and stone fruit with vibrant acidity, subtle spice, and a long, textured mineral finish. The restrained oak frame allows the character of the Mio Vineyard to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay of impressive purity, texture, and finesse. This is a wonderful expression of single vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara's Lincoln Lakeshore VQA which should be on your must try list! Tasted July 2026. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV and CFRA – June 19, 2026
Today on CTV Your Morning (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from across the country with special focus on regions such as Prince Edward County, Niagara, and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where wineries are producing wines with freshness, balance, elegance, complexity, and a true sense of place. These are the qualities that define many of the world’s greatest wines, and they are increasingly the qualities wine enthusiasts associate with Canadian wine. These wines highlight why Canada is now recognized as one of the most exciting cool-climate wine-producing countries in the world. The story of Canadian wine in 2026 is no longer about potential. It is about achievement. Ontario and British Columbia have become Canada’s superpowers for world-class wine, but the broader message extends across the country. Canadian wineries are producing wines that are refreshing, balanced, complex, food-friendly, age-worthy, and increasingly sought after by wine enthusiasts across Canada and around the world. From traditional method sparkling wine and elegant Chardonnay to expressive Pinot Noir, distinctive whites, and powerful red blends, Canadian wine has never been better. This Canada Day, support local. Drink Canadian. Explore the wines being produced in our own backyard. And discover why the world is paying more attention to what Canada is putting in the glass.
The Okanagan Valley: A Sommelier’s Look at a Region on the Rise
Returning to British Columbia wine country for the first time since 2022, Matt Steeves finds an Okanagan Valley defined by resilience, refined hospitality, and the promise of a standout 2025 vintage.
Volta Estate Winery — Prince Edward County’s New Visionary
Prince Edward County has never lacked for ambition, but Volta Estate Winery represents something altogether different — a bold, design-forward newcomer poised to reshape the region’s premium wine landscape. As the newest kid on the block in Hillier, Volta arrives with both serious intent and a long-term vision that extends well beyond the glass.
93 point wine review: Horseshoe Cellars 2024 Kelson Block Riesling – Grimsby Hillside Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA
Horseshoe Cellars 2024 Kelson Block Riesling Grimsby Hillside Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA 93 points A beautifully poised single-vineyard Riesling that captures both site and season with quiet confidence. Pale straw-gold in the glass, this wine opens with lifted aromas of crisp pear, white peach, stone fruit, melon, and wildflower honey, underscored by a precise wet-stone minerality. The palate is elegant and finely tuned, delivering refreshing stone fruit and white orchard flavours in a medium-light frame. At 12 g/L residual sugar, the wine carries just the faintest whisper of sweetness through the mid-palate—enough to round the edges without ever distracting from its freshness. The finish is clean, persistent, and mineral-driven, with lingering notes of white fruit and a subtle echo of honey. Planted in 2008 with Riesling clone 21B, the Kelson Block sits on the drier, slightly warmer northern edge of the Grimsby Hillside Vineyard, benefiting from increased sun exposure and reduced escarpment runoff. Rooted in Trafalgar clay loam with layers of red clay and green-banded shale over Queenston bedrock, the site brings both structure and finesse, expressed here with clarity and restraint. Hand-harvested on September 28, 2024, and produced in a tiny lot of just 70 cases, this is an impressive and articulate vintage of the Kelson Block from Horseshoe Cellars. Refreshing, elegant, and remarkably versatile at the table—equally at home with seafood, spicy Asian-inspired dishes, or simply enjoyed on its own. Tasted February 2026. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
Sommelier Matt Steeves’ Top Rated Wines of 2025
Each year, a small handful of wines rise unmistakably above the rest—bottles that don’t simply impress, but define what greatness looks like in their place of origin. The top-rated wines I tasted this year from Canada, Champagne, and across Italy represent the absolute pinnacle of craftsmanship, terroir expression, and ambition. These are wines made without compromise, where precision meets emotion, and regional identity is expressed with clarity and confidence. From cool-climate Canadian vineyards delivering finesse and mineral tension, to the timeless brilliance of Champagne, and the profound depth and heritage found throughout Italy’s greatest appellations, these selections stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the world’s finest. Together, they tell a compelling story of what is possible when vision, site, and skill align—wines that proudly showcase the extraordinary heights their regions can achieve on the global stage.
wine review: Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA
Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA Nestled in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Kirby Estate is positioning itself among Canada’s top-tier producers. Proprietors Scott and Maria Kirby have spared no effort in showcasing the full potential of their distinctive K-shaped estate vineyards (as depicted on their label). Supported by renowned viticulturalist Craig Wismer and winemaker Matt Smith, their philosophy is clear: precision farming, meticulous selection, and an uncompromising pursuit of quality. The 2020 Signature Merlot represents the pinnacle of their craft. Sourced from 18-year-old vines planted in sandy loam soils, the grapes were handpicked in two lots (October 24 and November 7) at 23+ and 25+ brix, highlighting both patience and confidence in the growing season. After cold soaking, wild yeast fermentation, and 20 months in French oak (new and neutral), the wine was bottled unfiltered in July 2022 at 15.7% ABV. This alone speaks volumes about the exceptional ripening achieved in this cool-climate region. Signature Merlot 2020 is a deep ruby colour with a subtle garnet rim. Fragrant and layered, offering sweet plum, blackberry, blueberry pie, cassis, and dark cherry, supported by savoury herbs, graphite, and crushed stone. A vibrant expression of both vintage ripeness and vineyard precision. Silky and powerful with exceptional texture. Velvety tannins frame concentrated dark fruit and spice, gradually unfolding into a long, graceful finish. Despite its 15.7% power, the wine remains refreshing and balanced, with cool-climate acidity adding lift and elegance to the full-bodied intensity. A defining expression of Niagara Merlot: rich, structured, and beautifully composed, capturing remarkable ripeness while staying true to its origin. The 2020 Signature Merlot is a testament to what can be achieved when ambition, talent, and terroir align. The finest Niagara Merlot I’ve tasted. Enjoy now with a 2 hour decant or cellar and enjoy over the next 15–20 years. Tasted November 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV
From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
