Tag: champagne

Wine review: Benjamin Bridge Underwater Quest NV Brut Rosé

This is a compelling sensory example demonstrating that underwater cellaring is not merely theatrical but, when executed with precision, can serve as a legitimate élevage method, influencing structural tension, mousse density, aromatic restraint, and preservation of freshness. Excellent now, but also a prime candidate for medium-term evolution under cork. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Taittinger Uncorked: From Roman Stone to Michelin Stars

My visit to Taittinger was not only a walk through centuries of winemaking excellence, but also a celebration of Champagne’s future, where tradition and innovation unite in perfect harmony. A visit to Reims, France, would be incomplete without a stop at Maison Taittinger. From the awe-inspiring chalk cellars and historic Abbey remnants to the refined gastronomic experiences at Polychrome, it’s an immersion into the soul of Champagne.

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wine review: York Vineyards 2018 Brut, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

York Vineyards, Canada’s first dedicated sparkling wine house, delivers an exceptional traditional method cuvée with their 2018 Brut — a masterclass in precision, patience, and expressive winemaking. Crafted entirely from 100% Pinot Gris, it was aged an impressive 60 months on the lees, with one-third raised in 500L amphora and the remaining two-thirds in French oak, offering a layered and complex aromatic and flavour profile. This is a serious and thrilling Canadian sparkling wine, crafted with uncompromising attention to detail. A standout bottle that confirms York Vineyards’ bold vision for Canadian sparkling wine at the highest level. Tasted June 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves

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