Tag: food

wine review: Masi Costasera Amarone Classico DOCG 2020

Founded in 1772, and now guided by the seventh generation of the Boscaini family, Masi has spent nearly 250 years shaping the voice of Amarone—rooted in heritage, guided by innovation, and always deeply connected to the land. Their flagship Costasera Amarone is grown on hillside vineyards spanning the historic communes of Marano, Negrar, Sant’Ambrogio, and San Pietro in Cariano—the very cradle of the Valpolicella Classico zone, where many of the region’s finest Amarone wines are produced each year. These west and southwest-facing slopes soak up the final warmth of the day, while Lake Garda’s cooling breezes preserve the wine’s natural lift and finesse—a hallmark of Classico Amarone, which tends to show more vibrancy and freshness compared to its warmer eastern counterparts. The soils here contain red limestone and cretaceous marl, rich in calcium carbonate, which add a mineral tension and elegance that complements the naturally rich dried fruit character found in many Amarone wines. From these noble slopes, Masi cultivates Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara, grapes that are slowly dried after harvest using the traditional appassimento method. The result is a wine style that balances intensity with elegance, approachable in its youth, yet structured for cellaring. I recently tasted the 2020 vintage of Costasera, now widely available at LCBO stores across Ontario, just in time for the holidays, when Amarone becomes one of the season’s most sought-after wines for both gifting and fireside enjoyment. In the glass, it’s deep, dense, and inviting, with expressive aromas of dark cherry, wild berries, and dried plum, layered with dark chocolate, balsamic herbs, graphite, and a subtle earthiness that nods to its hillside origins. The palate delivers a full-bodied, plush mouthfeel, lifted by bright acidity and fine, integrated tannins. Flavours of dried fruit, cocoa-dusted raisins, and gentle warm spice carry through a long, mouthwatering finish. While it’s drinking beautifully now, this wine will evolve gracefully over the next 10 to 15 years. It’s approachable, classically styled, and offers excellent value, making it a great introduction to Amarone for those just discovering the style, and a solid, reliable bottle for seasoned enthusiasts alike. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Torre di Terzolan Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

High in the hills of the upper Val Squaranto near Trezzolano, just minutes north of Verona, Torre di Terzolan stands as one of Valpolicella’s most evocative small estates. Housed within a 15th-century former hunting lodge, the winery sits at 350 metres above sea level, surrounded by a rich mosaic of vineyards, meadows, woodlands, and olive trees. It’s a landscape deeply rooted in history, biodiversity, and traditional land stewardship. Winemaker and proprietor Roberta produced her first vintage here in 2015, though hail damage delayed her inaugural commercial vintage to 2016. The estate cultivates 2.5 hectares of vineyards across four plots: La Mezzaluna, La Pala, Il Binte, and Il Brolo. Certified organic since 2020, production is limited to 13,000 bottles per year between three labels (Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore and Valpolicella), carefully crafted from indigenous Valpolicella varieties: Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Croatina. High in the hills of the upper Val Squaranto near Trezzolano, just minutes north of Verona, Torre di Terzolan stands as one of Valpolicella’s most evocative small estates. Housed within a 15th-century former hunting lodge, the winery sits at 350 metres above sea level, surrounded by a rich mosaic of vineyards, meadows, woodlands, and olive trees. It’s a landscape deeply rooted in history, biodiversity, and traditional land stewardship. Winemaker and proprietor Roberta produced her first vintage here in 2015, though hail damage delayed her inaugural commercial vintage to 2016. The estate cultivates 2.5 hectares of vineyards across four plots: La Mezzaluna, La Pala, Il Binte, and Il Brolo. Certified organic since 2020, production is limited to 13,000 bottles per year between three labels (Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore and Valpolicella), carefully crafted from indigenous Valpolicella varieties: Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Croatina. Torre di Terzolan Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 High in the hills of the upper Val Squaranto near Trezzolano, just minutes north of Verona, Torre di Terzolan stands as one of Valpolicella’s most evocative small estates. Housed within a 15th-century former hunting lodge, the winery sits at 350 metres above sea level, surrounded by a rich mosaic of vineyards, meadows, woodlands, and olive trees. It’s a landscape deeply rooted in history, biodiversity, and traditional land stewardship. Winemaker and proprietor Roberta produced her first vintage here in 2015, though hail damage delayed her inaugural commercial vintage to 2016. The estate cultivates 2.5 hectares of vineyards across four plots: La Mezzaluna, La Pala, Il Binte, and Il Brolo. Certified organic since 2020, production is limited to 13,000 bottles per year between three labels (Amarone, Valpolicella Superiore and Valpolicella), carefully crafted from indigenous Valpolicella varieties: Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella, and Croatina. During my visit to the estate in winter 2025, the deep connection between land and legacy was palpable, from the ancient cellars where Roberta ages her wines in oak and amphora, to the extraordinary tree towering over the estate which was planted in 1492 to mark Christopher Columbus’s discovery of America. A place of serenity and craftsmanship. Their 2020 Amarone beautifully builds on the impressive 2019 vintage, offering a fragrant, complex, and elegant interpretation while retaining remarkable intensity. The nose is deeply expressive, unveiling dark cherry, dried red and dark fruits, balsamic tones, subtle spice, and graphite minerality, with gentle floral and herbal nuances emerging over time. On the palate, it's harmonious and elegant, showing graceful concentration with dried dark fruit, plum, fine spice, and beautifully integrated tannins. The texture is refined, the structure poised, and the overall impression one of restrained power, an Amarone that favours finesse and purity over weight yet has the structure for decades of cellaring. A compelling expression from this talented producer, the 2020 vintage is shaping up to be another standout, exemplifying the unique character of Torre di Terzolan’s single vineyards on their historic estate. Expect graceful development over the next two decades. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Contrada Palui Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

This impressive lightly coloured Amarone impressed last year when it made its debut at Anteprima Amarone given its surprisingly faint colour yet big and layered taste profile. The 2020 vintage brings a similar light ruby colour and all the elegance you would expect along with great structure and texture revealing red and dark fruits, dried fruits, fig, plum, and sweet spices with impressive crushed rock minerality from the white limestone, black basalt and flint stone found in their high elevation vineyards overlooking Verona. This Amarone represents so clearly the terroir from where it was born. With their high elevation vineyards and careful winemaking they're able to reflect a profound sense of place so well. Contrada Palui is changing how many may have perceived Amarone in the past. See for yourself. Put your fancy Burgundy down and try this wine! You'll be impressed. Enjoy now and over the next 15 years. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Sartori ‘Corte Brà’ Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva 2020

Sartori ‘Corte Brà’ Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva 2020 Founded in 1898, Sartori di Verona is one of the region’s most historic and influential family wineries, with over a century of experience crafting wines that express the character and tradition of Valpolicella. Their flagship Amarone, Corte Brà, comes from select hillside vineyards in the Valpolicella Classico zone, where the combination of old vines, limestone-rich soils, and cooling breezes promotes depth, concentration, and longevity. Produced only in the best vintages, Corte Brà Amarone Riserva is Sartori’s top expression—crafted with meticulous grape selection and long aging to reveal the estate’s signature elegance and power. 2020 Corte Brà Riserva opens with concentrated dark fruit, warm spice, cracked pepper, orange peel, and lifted balsamic tones, all melding beautifully in a deep and expressive bouquet. Initial impression is simply delicious! On the palate, it's richly textured and layered, showing generous dark fruit and spice supported by youthful, firm tannins that promise decades of graceful evolution. The structure is impressive, the balance refined, and the overall expression unmistakably that of a top-tier Amarone from this storied family estate. A fantastic effort with a long life ahead, and a shining example of the depth and sophistication that define Sartori’s most prestigious bottling. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Vigna ‘800 Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva ‘Virgo Moron’

Vigna ‘800 Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva ‘Virgo Moron’ Vigna ‘800 is a family-run estate rooted in the historic hills of Negrar di Valpolicella in the heart of the Classico zone, where Amarone has been crafted and perfected for generations. The winery focuses on small-batch, terroir-driven wines that honour the region’s centuries-old winemaking culture. Known for purity, minerality, and complexity, Vigna ‘800 consistently produces Amarone that beautifully balances richness with freshness. Virgo Moron Riserva 2020 is an intriguing and deeply complex Amarone, opening with a layered bouquet of dark and dried fruits, interwoven with graphite minerality, earthiness, and delicate balsamic and savoury accents. The aromatic depth is captivating, offering both power and refinement. On the palate, the wine is richly textured yet balanced, with the dried-fruit character supported by savoury undertones and mineral lift. Everything is harmonious, polished, and beautifully composed—an exceptional Riserva that speaks clearly of its Classico hillside origins. Built for longevity, but immediately accessible, this is a wine to savour over the next couple decades. Enjoy 2026–2040. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico

Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde is a small, boutique estate producing just 4,000 individually numbered bottles of Amarone each vintage. They're located high in the hills above Marano di Valpolicella, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone northwest of Verona. Their vineyards sit at roughly 500 metres elevation, making them some of the highest in the entire appellation. These steep, terraced slopes—rich in limestone and ancient volcanic soils—benefit from excellent drainage and cool mountain breezes flowing down from the Lessinia plateau. This elevated setting naturally enhances freshness, aromatic definition, and long aging potential, giving the estate’s Amarone its hallmark elegance and finely textured structure. The 2020 Amarone Classico is a beautifully expressive and refined wine, opening with an elegant, rustic bouquet of dark cherry, dried fruit, potpourri, graphite, plum, and cherry Danish. The nose is layered and perfumed, offering both delicacy and depth. On the palate, it’s incredibly graceful—spicy dried fruit, fine light-textured tannins, and a whisper-soft, ballet-like elegance that glides effortlessly. This is an Amarone that speaks softly yet confidently, showcasing purity, aromatic complexity, and impeccable balance. Structured for longevity, the 2020 can be cellared for 25 years or more, evolving in nuance and finesse as it ages. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Sicily’s Volcanic Soul: Discovering the Wines of an Ancient Island

Sicily stands tall among Italy’s top wine-producing regions—not just for its scale, but for the extraordinary transformation it has undergone. As Italy’s largest wine region, with 23 DOCs, one DOCG, and nearly a quarter million acres under vine, Sicily was once associated with mass production and bulk exports. But over the past two decades, the island has shifted dramatically toward quality, terroir-driven wines that are now earning international acclaim—including growing attention here in Canada. With ancient varieties, extreme terroirs, and a generation of winemakers focused on quality and sustainability, Sicily has arrived! Its wines are expressive, authentic, and increasingly available to Canadian consumers looking for something special yet accessible. Keep an eye out for these labels at the LCBO and top wine shops—or better yet, plan your own visit. Sicily isn’t just a vacation destination that happens to make wine. It’s a wine destination that will stay with you long after the glass is empty.

wine review: Sue-Ann Staff Estate Winery Elisha’s Chardonnay 2018 – Niagara Peninsula VQA – $26.95

Light gold colour, the nose is inviting with rich orchard fruit, baked apple, pineapple, melon, and a hint of hazelnut. Full-bodied and creamy, offering an array of luscious orchard and tropical fruit flavors. The winemaker's careful attention in crafting this fine wine included fermenting in stainless steel followed by aging in French oak, and a small amount of Hungarian and Bulgarian oak. The result is a great expression of high quality and great value Niagara Chardonnay. Rich, ripe, and creamy, it’s a wine that showcases both the depth and power of the 2018 vintage. A testament to the skill of winemaker Sue-Ann Staff and the high quality fruit she's working with to offer such impressive wines at great prices. Enjoy over the next five years. Tasted March 2025. 90 points. Matt Steeves

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