Tag: italy

wine review: Vigneti di Ettore Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020

Vigneti di Ettore is a historic, family-run estate deeply rooted in the Valpolicella Classico zone. Founded in 1930, the winery has evolved through generations while maintaining a steadfast commitment to authenticity and quality. Today, the third generation—winemaker Gabriele—guides all viticultural and cellar work, supported by the experience and steady hand of his father, Giampaolo, who remains actively involved despite being “not fully retired.” The family farms 19 hectares of hillside parcels across the Negrar Valley, one of the beating hearts of Valpolicella Classico. Their vineyards benefit from varied exposures, elevations, and soils that combine clay, limestone, and ancient moraine, giving the wines nuance, energy, and minerality. Vigneti di Ettore’s style is defined by clarity, freshness, and a deft balance between tradition and precision. Their Amarone is never about sheer power—it’s about purity of fruit, textural finesse, and a sense of place. Over the years, the estate has quietly become one of the most consistent and compelling small producers in the region, with each vintage deepening their reputation. The 2020 Amarone from Vigneti di Ettore is a beautifully harmonious and strikingly refined interpretation of this famed style—perhaps the finest expression the estate has produced to date. The nose opens with a seamless medley of dark fruit, subtle spice, mineral notes, and lifted aromas that speak to both the vineyard elevations and the careful appassimento. There is a compelling interplay of freshness and depth, with everything integrated and in perfect balance. On the palate, the wine continues its theme of harmony. Dark fruit is woven into savoury, mineral-driven layers, all carried by a smooth, textural elegance. Nothing is overdone; every component—aroma, flavour, structure, and texture—works together with remarkable cohesion. This is a modern, sophisticated Amarone built on finesse rather than force. Still youthful but already captivating, the 2020 will reward patience. The anticipated release is winter 2027, and the wine will continue to evolve beautifully for decades thereafter. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Albino Armani Cuslanus Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2020 (estimated release 2028)

Albino Armani’s long history in the Veneto, documented over four centuries, continues to flourish through a deep commitment to traditional techniques, high-altitude viticulture, and site-driven expressions of Valpolicella. Their Riserva-tier Amarone, Cuslanus, is sourced from some of the region’s most elevated vineyards, including parcels reaching 500 metres above sea level, where cooler temperatures and steady mountain breezes preserve freshness and shape the wine’s trademark lift and aromatic precision. Cuslanus Riserva 2020 is the finest vintage of this wine I’ve tasted to date. It opens with an impressive array of rich dark fruit, layered with a beautiful medley of sweet spice, brandied cherry, and chocolate, creating an elegant yet gently opulent aromatic profile. The palate is both refined and refreshing, a hallmark of the high-altitude vineyards from which the wine is sourced. There is a clarity and vibrancy to the fruit, remarkably balanced by a subtle richness that speaks to the harmony achieved in this vintage. The structure is poised, the tannins polished, and the overall impression one of finesse and quiet depth. With its combination of freshness, elegance, and concentrated flavour, this is a superb Amarone Riserva that will reward cellaring and will stand out as one of the estate’s great vintages. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Fasoli Gino “Alteo” Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Fasoli Gino Alteo Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 - 17.5% - Founded in 1925 and known for its commitment to organic and artisanal production, Fasoli Gino is one of Valpolicella’s most respected family wineries. Their flagship Amarone, Alteo, is crafted exclusively from vineyards planted on the highest slopes of Valpolicella, where a mix of clay and limestone soils contributes natural minerality, tension, and structural depth. These elevated, well-ventilated sites allow the grapes to ripen gradually, developing intense concentration while preserving freshness. The fruit for Alteo is manually harvested in early fall, then undergoes approximately four months of appassimento—the traditional withering process that intensifies sugars, aromatics, and structure. After a slow, patient fermentation, the wine matures in barriques for a minimum of three years before an additional year of bottle aging, ensuring complexity, integration, and longevity. This meticulous, time-honored approach yields a powerful yet detailed Amarone of great character and aging potential. The 2020 Alteo Amarone immediately captured my attention for its rich, rustic, and layered personality. The nose is expressive and evocative, delivering savory dark fruit, dried fruit, fig, potpourri, and forest floor, all unfolding in beautifully interwoven layers. On the palate, the wine is deep, concentrated, and texturally impressive, with flavours of cassis, dried cherry, spice, and warm, earthy undertones. The length is exceptional, carrying its richness with confidence and balance. Despite its power (17.5%), the wine remains poised, driven by the minerality and structure imparted by its high-elevation clay-limestone vineyards. This is a robust, complex, and beautifully crafted Amarone—showing wonderfully now, with the depth and stamina to evolve gracefully over the next two decades. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Lamole di Lamole “Lareale” Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Tuscany, Italy

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Sicily’s Volcanic Soul: Discovering the Wines of an Ancient Island

Sicily stands tall among Italy’s top wine-producing regions—not just for its scale, but for the extraordinary transformation it has undergone. As Italy’s largest wine region, with 23 DOCs, one DOCG, and nearly a quarter million acres under vine, Sicily was once associated with mass production and bulk exports. But over the past two decades, the island has shifted dramatically toward quality, terroir-driven wines that are now earning international acclaim—including growing attention here in Canada. With ancient varieties, extreme terroirs, and a generation of winemakers focused on quality and sustainability, Sicily has arrived! Its wines are expressive, authentic, and increasingly available to Canadian consumers looking for something special yet accessible. Keep an eye out for these labels at the LCBO and top wine shops—or better yet, plan your own visit. Sicily isn’t just a vacation destination that happens to make wine. It’s a wine destination that will stay with you long after the glass is empty.

96 point wine review: Hester Creek Garland 2022, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC

The 2022 vintage—one of the finest on record in the Okanagan—has yielded what may be Hester Creek’s most complete and compelling Garland to date. This meticulously crafted blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec showcases the richness and refinement achievable on the sun-drenched slopes of the Golden Mile Bench. Picked between October 12 and November 9, the fruit from this stellar vintage is deeply expressive. The nose is inviting, layered, and refined, with dark fruit, black currant, tobacco leaf, graphite, and the signature Black Sagebrush and desert herbals that define southern Okanagan terroir. The palate is equally captivating—luscious and vibrant, with velvety tannins and a refreshingly polished mouthfeel that brings to mind the finesse of Bolgheri, the structure of Pomerol, and the power of Oakville. Yet for all those parallels, Garland 2022 is distinctly South Okanagan. Harmonious, concentrated, and beautifully framed, it’s a masterclass in balance and a showcase of the region’s potential. A brilliant wine from winemaker Mark Hopley and his team—elegant now and destined to evolve gracefully over the next 10+ years. Tasted July 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Look for it at Hester Creek, Bench Club, and throughout BC where fine wines are sold - $65+

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Italy’s best white wines which you’ve probably never heard of…

When wine lovers think of Italian viticulture, it’s often the iconic reds that spring to mind—Barolo, Brunello, Amarone—names synonymous with gravitas and longevity. And when they think of Italian whites, the selection tends to be narrower: the crisp friendliness of Pinot Grigio, the celebratory charm of Prosecco. But for those willing to step off the beaten path, Italy offers a treasure trove of white wines of astounding depth and finesse—nowhere more so than in the Collio DOC. Tucked into Italy’s northeast, along the Slovenian border in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Collio is a hilly, sun-soaked amphitheatre of rolling vineyards, ancient soils, and quietly ambitious producers. Here, terroir is king, tradition runs deep, and white wine—yes, white wine—is a serious art form. Known for its structured, mineral-driven whites with age-worthy potential, Collio offers a far broader and more profound expression of Italian white wine than most consumers ever get to see. The very name Collio comes from colli, Italian for hills—and hills dominate this landscape. Vineyards must be planted on slopes to carry the DOC designation, maximizing sun exposure and drainage while capturing the cool night air that helps grapes retain their acidity. But it’s the soil that truly defines this place: Ponca, a friable marl and sandstone matrix layered over eons, infuses Collio wines with a signature minerality and tactile tension. Add to that a microclimate shaped by the Julian Alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south, and you have the perfect recipe for complexity and elegance: warm, dry days that encourage ripeness; cool nights that lock in freshness; and winds that keep vineyards healthy and vibrant. This article highlights why you should seek out Collio DOC wines when you can.

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wine review: 2022 Livon Friulano Collio DOC “Manditocai”

From the revered Manditocai vineyard in Ruttars, nestled in the northwestern reaches of Collio in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s 2022 Friulano “Manditocai” delivers a sophisticated and deeply rooted expression of the region’s signature white varietal. With its south and southwest exposure and classic Ponca soils (marl and sandstone), the site offers ideal conditions for ripening Friulano with both richness and tension. Fermented half in French oak barriques and half in stainless steel, and aged for 8 months before blending, the wine achieves a seamless balance of fruit purity and refined structure. Pale gold colour, the nose is layered and evocative, opening with fragrant floral notes, Marigold blossoms, summer meadow, stonefruit, touch of petrol, and a faint herbaceous note completes the bouquet. More yellow flower, citrus, peach, and minerality on palate. It's fresh and energetic. Friulano is a great variety for representing terroir and Manditocai 2022 shines bright with precision and poise. Tasted February 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: 2022 Livon Malvasia Collio DOC “Soluna”

Livon Malvasia Collio DOC 'Soluna' - Sourced from the esteemed Ruttars Cru in the northwestern reaches of Collio, in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s Malvasia “Soluna” is a strikingly expressive and terroir-driven white that captures the wild elegance of its origin. On the nose, Soluna unfurls with a smoky allure—fumé, wood smoke, and flint—layered over ripe stone fruit, apricot, apple, and wild herbs. This savory aromatic complexity offers a deeply evocative first impression. The palate is no less compelling: vibrant orchard fruits—pear, apple—give way to honeyed stone fruit richness, balanced by a firm streak of saline minerality. The finish is long, textured, and mouthwatering, echoing the wine's smoky and mineral undertones with a persistent, salty lift. A refined and characterful expression of Malvasia, Soluna is drinking beautifully now but has the structure and depth to evolve over the coming years. Tasted February 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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