Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario, Canada – $40 winery-direct

the earthy sweetness of roasted beets. These aromas combine to create a nuanced and multi-layered bouquet that invites deep exploration. On the palate, elegant and beautifully composed. Medium to full-bodied, it reveals a repeating pattern of dusty plum, raspberry, black tea, and graphite, which carry through from the nose with great persistence. The balance between fruit, structure, and acidity is impressive. Proprietor/vintner Taylor Emmerson and winemaker Jonathan McLean have beautifully crafted a wine that is sophisticated, complex, yet so approachable. Fine, ripe tannins frame the wine’s complexity, offering a smooth yet substantial mouthfeel. The acidity adds freshness, while the wine’s rich fruit and savory depth linger on a long, pleasant finish. For those seeking a nuanced, terroir-driven wine, Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 offers an exciting opportunity to experience the potential of this region and how big reds can shine in Niagara. Its deep, complex flavors and structured elegance make it a perfect candidate for medium-term cellaring, though its current expression is perfectly primed for enjoyment as soon as it's released in late March/early spring 2025. Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 is a stellar example of Niagara Cabernet Franc, offering a complex mix of fruit, savory notes, and minerality. At $40 a bottle, this wine delivers great value for collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering both immediate enjoyment and medium-term aging potential.

wine review: Sempre Mio Marsanne 2023 – VQA Lincoln Lakeshore – Corey Mio Home Vineyard

Corey Mio's debut wine from their Beamsville-based home vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore sub-appellation of the Niagara Peninsula. Sempre Mio Marsanne 2023 is a low production (105 cases) blend of 87% Marsanne, 13% Viognier (clone 1042), which was co-fermented following harvest on October 5th 2023. Natural primary and malolactic fermentation in a combo of 2nd fill and neutral French oak barrels for 11 months. The nose is very pretty and fresh, with honeydew melon, poached pear, quince, roasted nuts, and lanolin. Dry and deliciously creamy, with impressive refreshing acidity for this varietal, the palate shows layers of ripe orchard fruit, pithy citrus, chamomile, and custard, with a slight nuttiness on the finish. A unique wine from Niagara, and one that is certain to impress any palate given its approachable style yet very complex bouquet and flavour profile. Enjoy over the next 5-10 years with roast chicken, creamy pasta, or pan-fried trout with a butter sauce and honey-mango compote. Tasted November 2024. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Premium Burgundy Alternative You Need To Taste… and it’s not Pinot Noir… or from France.

Thomas Bachelder is renowned for his focus on producing ultra premium single vineyard wines throughout the Niagara Peninsula. Although Thomas produces some of the best and most sought after single vineyard Pinot and Chardonnay in Ontario, his latest project includes 9 single vineyard expressions of Gamay Noir from the Niagara region that highlight the great 2022 vintage. One that particularly impressed me was his newest single vineyard Gamay Noir from Corey Mio's Lincoln Lakeshore Sub Appellation vineyard in Beamsville, Ontario, located just below the Beamsville Bench.

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