wine review: Kirby Estate Single Vineyard Merlot 2022 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate continues to demonstrate why the western reaches of Niagara-on-the-Lake, bordering the Four Mile Creek sub-appellation, are capable of producing some of Canada's most compelling Merlot. Here, warm days, moderating lake influences, and mineral-rich lacustrine silt and sandy loam soils consistently deliver full phenolic ripeness while preserving the vibrant acidity that gives Niagara's finest wines their unmistakable freshness. It is a terroir uniquely suited to crafting both expressive, age-worthy red wines and elegant, mineral-driven Chardonnay. The 2022 Estate Merlot reflects the remarkable concentration of this exceptionally low-yielding vintage. Aromas of graphite, crushed raspberry and a medley of dark berries mingle with hints of menthol, sweet baking spice and wet stone minerality. The palate is fresh, energetic and beautifully composed, balancing ripe dark fruit with lively acidity and finely integrated tannins. Nineteen months in a combination of new and neutral Burgundian oak provides subtle complexity without overshadowing the purity of the fruit. The finish is long, refreshing and distinctly mineral, leaving an impression of elegance rather than weight. While the monumental 2020 Signature Merlot showcased just how profound Niagara Merlot can become in an exceptional vintage, the 2022 Estate Merlot offers a more restrained and classically proportioned expression, emphasizing precision, freshness and site transparency. It is another outstanding example of the remarkable quality emerging from Kirby Estate. Tasted July 2026.  95 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 While Niagara-on-the-Lake has earned its reputation for producing expressive, ripe red wines, it shines just as brightly with medium to full-bodied cool-climate Chardonnay. At Kirby Estate, the combination of mineral-rich lacustrine silt soils, warm days, cool nights and the moderating influence of Lake Ontario consistently yields fruit that achieves exceptional phenolic ripeness while retaining the vibrant natural acidity that defines the region's finest white wines. The exceptionally low-yielding 2022 vintage has produced a Chardonnay of remarkable concentration, elegance and precision. Aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear and white orchard fruit are layered with delicate baking spice, subtle hints of toasted brioche and pronounced seashell minerality. The palate is silky and beautifully textured, the result of full malolactic fermentation and twenty months in second-fill Damy Vosges Burgundian oak, yet remains vibrant and energetic. Ripe orchard fruit, citrus and crushed stone unfold across the palate before giving way to a long, mineral-driven finish that lingers with freshness and finesse. The restrained élevage allows the exceptional fruit and distinctive terroir to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay that recalls the balance and understated elegance of fine white Burgundy while remaining unmistakably Niagara. Another beautifully composed wine from Kirby Estate that reinforces the estate's growing reputation as one of Niagara's premier ultra-premium producers. Drink: 2026-2036+. Tasted July 2026. 94 Points Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: 2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13% ABV

2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay recalls the elegance of fine white Burgundy, opening with yellow apple, white peach and delicate white blossoms before revealing hints of almond croissant, wet limestone and seashell minerality. The palate is both creamy and precise, balancing ripe orchard and stone fruit with vibrant acidity, subtle spice, and a long, textured mineral finish. The restrained oak frame allows the character of the Mio Vineyard to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay of impressive purity, texture, and finesse. This is a wonderful expression of single vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara's Lincoln Lakeshore VQA which should be on your must try list! Tasted July 2026. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV and CFRA – June 19, 2026

Today on CTV Your Morning (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from across the country with special focus on regions such as Prince Edward County, Niagara, and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where wineries are producing wines with freshness, balance, elegance, complexity, and a true sense of place. These are the qualities that define many of the world’s greatest wines, and they are increasingly the qualities wine enthusiasts associate with Canadian wine. These wines highlight why Canada is now recognized as one of the most exciting cool-climate wine-producing countries in the world. The story of Canadian wine in 2026 is no longer about potential. It is about achievement. Ontario and British Columbia have become Canada’s superpowers for world-class wine, but the broader message extends across the country. Canadian wineries are producing wines that are refreshing, balanced, complex, food-friendly, age-worthy, and increasingly sought after by wine enthusiasts across Canada and around the world. From traditional method sparkling wine and elegant Chardonnay to expressive Pinot Noir, distinctive whites, and powerful red blends, Canadian wine has never been better. This Canada Day, support local. Drink Canadian. Explore the wines being produced in our own backyard. And discover why the world is paying more attention to what Canada is putting in the glass.

Volta Estate Winery — Prince Edward County’s New Visionary

Prince Edward County has never lacked for ambition, but Volta Estate Winery represents something altogether different — a bold, design-forward newcomer poised to reshape the region’s premium wine landscape. As the newest kid on the block in Hillier, Volta arrives with both serious intent and a long-term vision that extends well beyond the glass.

wine review: Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA Nestled in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Kirby Estate is positioning itself among Canada’s top-tier producers. Proprietors Scott and Maria Kirby have spared no effort in showcasing the full potential of their distinctive K-shaped estate vineyards (as depicted on their label). Supported by renowned viticulturalist Craig Wismer and winemaker Matt Smith, their philosophy is clear: precision farming, meticulous selection, and an uncompromising pursuit of quality. The 2020 Signature Merlot represents the pinnacle of their craft. Sourced from 18-year-old vines planted in sandy loam soils, the grapes were handpicked in two lots (October 24 and November 7) at 23+ and 25+ brix, highlighting both patience and confidence in the growing season. After cold soaking, wild yeast fermentation, and 20 months in French oak (new and neutral), the wine was bottled unfiltered in July 2022 at 15.7% ABV. This alone speaks volumes about the exceptional ripening achieved in this cool-climate region. Signature Merlot 2020 is a deep ruby colour with a subtle garnet rim. Fragrant and layered, offering sweet plum, blackberry, blueberry pie, cassis, and dark cherry, supported by savoury herbs, graphite, and crushed stone. A vibrant expression of both vintage ripeness and vineyard precision. Silky and powerful with exceptional texture. Velvety tannins frame concentrated dark fruit and spice, gradually unfolding into a long, graceful finish. Despite its 15.7% power, the wine remains refreshing and balanced, with cool-climate acidity adding lift and elegance to the full-bodied intensity. A defining expression of Niagara Merlot: rich, structured, and beautifully composed, capturing remarkable ripeness while staying true to its origin. The 2020 Signature Merlot is a testament to what can be achieved when ambition, talent, and terroir align. The finest Niagara Merlot I’ve tasted. Enjoy now with a 2 hour decant or cellar and enjoy over the next 15–20 years. Tasted November 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV

From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA

The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025

World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV – June 30, 2025

Today on CTV Morning Live (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from all across Canada. These are wines which sommeliers across Canada and around the world are raving about the high quality and world-class nature that these wines have, similar to some of the finest wines from more storied wine regions in the world.  But nowadays you don’t need to look far in Canada to find exceptional quality wines that are both locally produced and absolutely delicious! As we prepare to celebrate Canada Day this is one of the best times to explore and enjoy Canadian wine as we’ve come a long way over the past half century and we’ve firmly secured our spot as a great wine-making nation!

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