wine review: Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2022 – Black Sage Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC

May 2025

Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2022 – Elegance and Precision in a Glass

This impressive Okanagan Chardonnay from Burrowing Owl Estate Winery is yet another shining example of the world-class wines emerging from Canada’s Wine Capital. Nestled along the Black Sage Road in Oliver, BC, Burrowing Owl continues to craft expressive, terroir-driven wines that reflect the unique climate and soils of their estate vineyards. While the 2022 vintage began with cooler-than-usual conditions, it ultimately ranked among the top six warmest growing seasons on record. Remarkably, the wine retains the hallmark freshness of that cool start—an attribute that adds vibrancy and elegance.

In the glass, it shows a pale golden yellow with glints of green. The nose is delicately perfumed with vibrant citrus, crisp pear, yellow apple, lemon tart, and a whisper of jasmine tea and dessert herbs. On the palate, it’s full-bodied yet incredibly poised, with an elegant creaminess and mouthwatering acidity. There’s a beautiful layering of orchard fruit, lemon curd, and yellow apple, accented by subtle wood spice and framed with finesse. The oak is restrained and expertly integrated, lending gentle structure without overshadowing the purity of the fruit. Compared to richer vintages—those expressing golden apple, hazelnut, and butterscotch—the 2022 is more lifted and aromatic, showcasing precision and energy while still delivering the creamy, layered texture for which Burrowing Owl is known. Pair it with grilled seafood, roast poultry, or autumn squash bisque. This is arguably the most elegant Chardonnay yet from Burrowing Owl—ready to enjoy now, or worthy of cellaring for 5+ years to reveal further complexity. Tasted May 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct $35+