wine review: Burrowing Owl Cabernet Sauvignon 2022, Okanagan Valley, BC

Ottawa, ON

Matt’s review: Burrowing Owl’s 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is a wonderful example of the beautifully textured Cabernet Sauvignon the Okanagan Valley is capable of producing. Burrowing Owl’s vineyards along the Black Sage Bench and in Osoyoos feature coarse-textured, free-draining soils of sand and gravel, the legacy of high-energy meltwater and glacial outburst floods dating back 10k-15k years. These soils, combined with the region’s intense summer heat and varied topography, create a terroir ideal for cultivating Cabernet of both great structure and finesse.

2022 Cabernet opens with a fragrant bouquet of dark plum, ripe blackberry, and cracked pepper, underpinned by a lively freshness and the region’s hallmark desert botanicals. Subtle notes of graphite, sandalwood, and a quiet earthiness hint at the gravel-rich soils from which the vines draw their character. On the palate, it speaks clearly of its southern Okanagan origins: layered, expressive, and beautifully balanced. Dense black cherry and warm spice intermingle with herbal complexity—black sage making its mark—woven into a framework of fine, dusty tannins. The structure is confident yet polished, a reflection of the high quality fruit Burrowing Owl is producing in their vineyards that benefit from a southern valley desert climate with some of the highest growing degree-day accumulations in BC’s interior. Compelling now, yet built to evolve gracefully through 2035. A natural pairing with grilled steak, rosemary-crusted lamb, or aged artisanal cheeses. Tasted June 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery direct