wine review: Albino Armani Cuslanus Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2020 (estimated release 2028)

Matt’s review: Albino Armani’s long history in the Veneto, documented over four centuries, continues to flourish through a deep commitment to traditional techniques, high-altitude viticulture, and site-driven expressions of Valpolicella. Their Riserva-tier Amarone, Cuslanus, is sourced from some of the region’s most elevated vineyards, including parcels reaching 500 metres above sea level, where cooler temperatures and steady mountain breezes preserve freshness and shape the wine’s trademark lift and aromatic precision.

Cuslanus Riserva 2020 is the finest vintage of this wine I’ve tasted to date. It opens with an impressive array of rich dark fruit, layered with a beautiful medley of sweet spice, brandied cherry, and chocolate, creating an elegant yet gently opulent aromatic profile. The palate is both refined and refreshing, a hallmark of the high-altitude vineyards from which the wine is sourced. There is a clarity and vibrancy to the fruit, remarkably balanced by a subtle richness that speaks to the harmony achieved in this vintage. The structure is poised, the tannins polished, and the overall impression one of finesse and quiet depth. With its combination of freshness, elegance, and concentrated flavour, this is a superb Amarone Riserva that will reward cellaring and will stand out as one of the estate’s great vintages. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca