wine review: Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Matt’s review: Roccolo Grassi is located just outside the Valpolicella Classico zone in Mezzane di Sotto, an eastern valley renowned for producing some of the region’s most refined and distinctive wines. Established in 1996 by Bruno Sartori, the estate takes its name from Roccolo Grassi, their most important vineyard and the source of fruit for their flagship Amarone and Valpolicella.

The family farms 16 hectares of vineyards in Val di Mezzane, situated between 200 and 300 metres elevation. The soils here are a compelling mix of volcanic basalt and stony red and black clays, a combination that imparts both mineral tension and depth to their wines. The valley enjoys a cool mesoclimate, influenced by cooling air descending from the Lessini Mountains, alongside lower-than-average rainfall—conditions that promote slow, even ripening.

Roccolo Grassi Amarone 2020 is a beautifully expressive and impeccably composed wine, opening with meaty, graphite, fig, plum, and spice notes lifted by a touch of balsamic complexity. The aromatics are deep and savoury, yet elegant. On the palate, gorgeous integration and harmony, with plush dark fruit, savoury nuances, and a refined mineral backbone. The balance is exceptional, and the structure—powerful yet polished—demonstrates the precision and character that define Roccolo Grassi’s style. A fantastic, complex, and deeply satisfying Amarone, and one of the standout wines of the 2020 vintage. Built to age gracefully for decades. Enjoy 2026 – 2050. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca