wine review: Zeni 1870 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico VigneAlte 2020

Zeni 1870 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico VigneAlte 2020 – Zeni is a historic family-run winery founded in 1870, which has deep roots in Bardolino where their main winery is located, but also in Valpolicella since the 1960s. Vigne Alte Amarone is sourced from higher-altitude hillside vineyards in the Valpolicella Classico zone, the traditional heartland of Amarone production. The combination of calcareous-basaltic soils and the cooler diurnal range of elevated slopes yields grapes with intense concentration yet remarkable aromatic lift. The nose is super-decadent, imagine a hedonistic interplay of black cherries, black-forest cake, kirsch, and dark chocolate, laced with cocoa powder, sweet baking spice, and a graphite-mineral undertone from the basalt-limestone soils. Elegant hints of dried fig, espresso, and preserved cherry linger in the background, adding warmth and sophistication. The palate is velvety and expansive, unfolding in layers of black-cherry-filled pastries and cocoa-dusted spice, framed by supple, creamy tannins and balanced freshness. There’s a subtle saline–mineral tension that keeps the wine from excess, leading to an opulent yet finely tuned finish of fruit preserves, mocha, and spice that lingers luxuriously. A decadent yet balanced Amarone, marrying luxurious richness with poise and minerality. Tasted February 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca