Author: quercusvino

Independent Wine Writer, Sommelier, CTV Morning Live & CFRA News Talk Radio Somm

wine review: Lamole di Lamole “Lareale” Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Tuscany, Italy

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA

The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025

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wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

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Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Les Jamelles Rouge Osé 2024 now at LCBO

Some red wines truly shine when served chilled, and Rouge Osé 2024 from Les Jamelles is the perfect introduction to that refreshing style. Just as a crisp rosé finds its stride on a hot summer’s day, this lively, light-bodied red shows how wonderfully vibrant and quaffable chilled reds can be. In the glass, Rouge Osé shimmers a bright ruby red. Aromas of cran-cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry leap out, joined by perfumed floral notes, a touch of spice, and a hint of cool menthol. The palate is crisp, crunchy, and bursting with red fruit, delivering both freshness and lift. Low tannins and a silky texture make it irresistibly drinkable, especially when slightly chilled in the summer sun. Food pairings? Think light and easy: charcuterie boards, grilled fish, fresh tartare, white meats, or simply pizza with friends. But make no mistake—this wine is equally enjoyable all on its own, served chilled on a warm afternoon. At $17.95 (LCBO), it’s a great deal. Les Jamelles Rouge Osé is fun, refreshing, and a must-try for anyone curious about chilled reds. Highly recommend checking it out this summer and discovering for yourself just how great a light-bodied red can be when served cold. Tasted August 2025. 89 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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Taittinger Uncorked: From Roman Stone to Michelin Stars

My visit to Taittinger was not only a walk through centuries of winemaking excellence, but also a celebration of Champagne’s future, where tradition and innovation unite in perfect harmony. A visit to Reims, France, would be incomplete without a stop at Maison Taittinger. From the awe-inspiring chalk cellars and historic Abbey remnants to the refined gastronomic experiences at Polychrome, it’s an immersion into the soul of Champagne.

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