Category: Holiday Wine

wine review: Tezza Viticoltori Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Tezza Viticoltori Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 - Tezza Viticoltori, based in the Valpantena valley immediately northeast of Verona. Their 2020 Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG shows impressive intensity and depth, layering bold dark and red fruit with inviting notes of sweet spice, chocolate, clove, and dried fig. The calcareous, well-drained soils of Valpantena lend structure and lift, keeping the wine refined rather than heavy, while the Tezza family’s restrained approach and organic farming allows the fruit and terroir to shine. It’s a beautifully balanced Amarone, rich, warmly spiced, and poised to age gracefully while preserving its hallmark warm spice and refreshing dried-fruit complexity. Tasted February 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Vigneti di Ettore Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG 2020

Vigneti di Ettore is a historic, family-run estate deeply rooted in the Valpolicella Classico zone. Founded in 1930, the winery has evolved through generations while maintaining a steadfast commitment to authenticity and quality. Today, the third generation—winemaker Gabriele—guides all viticultural and cellar work, supported by the experience and steady hand of his father, Giampaolo, who remains actively involved despite being “not fully retired.” The family farms 19 hectares of hillside parcels across the Negrar Valley, one of the beating hearts of Valpolicella Classico. Their vineyards benefit from varied exposures, elevations, and soils that combine clay, limestone, and ancient moraine, giving the wines nuance, energy, and minerality. Vigneti di Ettore’s style is defined by clarity, freshness, and a deft balance between tradition and precision. Their Amarone is never about sheer power—it’s about purity of fruit, textural finesse, and a sense of place. Over the years, the estate has quietly become one of the most consistent and compelling small producers in the region, with each vintage deepening their reputation. The 2020 Amarone from Vigneti di Ettore is a beautifully harmonious and strikingly refined interpretation of this famed style—perhaps the finest expression the estate has produced to date. The nose opens with a seamless medley of dark fruit, subtle spice, mineral notes, and lifted aromas that speak to both the vineyard elevations and the careful appassimento. There is a compelling interplay of freshness and depth, with everything integrated and in perfect balance. On the palate, the wine continues its theme of harmony. Dark fruit is woven into savoury, mineral-driven layers, all carried by a smooth, textural elegance. Nothing is overdone; every component—aroma, flavour, structure, and texture—works together with remarkable cohesion. This is a modern, sophisticated Amarone built on finesse rather than force. Still youthful but already captivating, the 2020 will reward patience. The anticipated release is winter 2027, and the wine will continue to evolve beautifully for decades thereafter. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Albino Armani Cuslanus Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2020 (estimated release 2028)

Albino Armani’s long history in the Veneto, documented over four centuries, continues to flourish through a deep commitment to traditional techniques, high-altitude viticulture, and site-driven expressions of Valpolicella. Their Riserva-tier Amarone, Cuslanus, is sourced from some of the region’s most elevated vineyards, including parcels reaching 500 metres above sea level, where cooler temperatures and steady mountain breezes preserve freshness and shape the wine’s trademark lift and aromatic precision. Cuslanus Riserva 2020 is the finest vintage of this wine I’ve tasted to date. It opens with an impressive array of rich dark fruit, layered with a beautiful medley of sweet spice, brandied cherry, and chocolate, creating an elegant yet gently opulent aromatic profile. The palate is both refined and refreshing, a hallmark of the high-altitude vineyards from which the wine is sourced. There is a clarity and vibrancy to the fruit, remarkably balanced by a subtle richness that speaks to the harmony achieved in this vintage. The structure is poised, the tannins polished, and the overall impression one of finesse and quiet depth. With its combination of freshness, elegance, and concentrated flavour, this is a superb Amarone Riserva that will reward cellaring and will stand out as one of the estate’s great vintages. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Fasoli Gino “Alteo” Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Fasoli Gino Alteo Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 - 17.5% - Founded in 1925 and known for its commitment to organic and artisanal production, Fasoli Gino is one of Valpolicella’s most respected family wineries. Their flagship Amarone, Alteo, is crafted exclusively from vineyards planted on the highest slopes of Valpolicella, where a mix of clay and limestone soils contributes natural minerality, tension, and structural depth. These elevated, well-ventilated sites allow the grapes to ripen gradually, developing intense concentration while preserving freshness. The fruit for Alteo is manually harvested in early fall, then undergoes approximately four months of appassimento—the traditional withering process that intensifies sugars, aromatics, and structure. After a slow, patient fermentation, the wine matures in barriques for a minimum of three years before an additional year of bottle aging, ensuring complexity, integration, and longevity. This meticulous, time-honored approach yields a powerful yet detailed Amarone of great character and aging potential. The 2020 Alteo Amarone immediately captured my attention for its rich, rustic, and layered personality. The nose is expressive and evocative, delivering savory dark fruit, dried fruit, fig, potpourri, and forest floor, all unfolding in beautifully interwoven layers. On the palate, the wine is deep, concentrated, and texturally impressive, with flavours of cassis, dried cherry, spice, and warm, earthy undertones. The length is exceptional, carrying its richness with confidence and balance. Despite its power (17.5%), the wine remains poised, driven by the minerality and structure imparted by its high-elevation clay-limestone vineyards. This is a robust, complex, and beautifully crafted Amarone—showing wonderfully now, with the depth and stamina to evolve gracefully over the next two decades. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV

From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Lamole di Lamole “Lareale” Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Tuscany, Italy

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

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wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

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Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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