wine review: Lamole di Lamole “Lareale” Riserva Chianti Classico DOCG 2020, Tuscany, Italy

Impressive and welcoming from the first swirl, the 2020 Chianti Classico 'Lareale' Riserva opens with a complex bouquet showing sweet sandalwood, warm spice, black tea, brandied cherry, plum, balsamic notes, leather, and graphite. There’s both elegance and depth here, a seamless expression of Lamole’s high-elevation terroir (upwards of 600m asl), and the estate’s signature finesse. On the palate, savoury dark fruit mingles with hints of brighter berries, the soft tannins gently emerge on the long, balanced finish, providing structure without austerity. Polished and beautifully integrated, this Riserva is showing wonderfully now and will continue to evolve gracefully over the next decade. A refined Riserva that showcases what makes Chianti Classico so timeless — bright fruit, savoury spice, and the graceful balance only its Tuscan hills can produce. Tasted November 2025, 92 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

wine review: Les Jamelles Rouge Osé 2024 now at LCBO

Some red wines truly shine when served chilled, and Rouge Osé 2024 from Les Jamelles is the perfect introduction to that refreshing style. Just as a crisp rosé finds its stride on a hot summer’s day, this lively, light-bodied red shows how wonderfully vibrant and quaffable chilled reds can be. In the glass, Rouge Osé shimmers a bright ruby red. Aromas of cran-cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry leap out, joined by perfumed floral notes, a touch of spice, and a hint of cool menthol. The palate is crisp, crunchy, and bursting with red fruit, delivering both freshness and lift. Low tannins and a silky texture make it irresistibly drinkable, especially when slightly chilled in the summer sun. Food pairings? Think light and easy: charcuterie boards, grilled fish, fresh tartare, white meats, or simply pizza with friends. But make no mistake—this wine is equally enjoyable all on its own, served chilled on a warm afternoon. At $17.95 (LCBO), it’s a great deal. Les Jamelles Rouge Osé is fun, refreshing, and a must-try for anyone curious about chilled reds. Highly recommend checking it out this summer and discovering for yourself just how great a light-bodied red can be when served cold. Tasted August 2025. 89 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Taittinger Uncorked: From Roman Stone to Michelin Stars

My visit to Taittinger was not only a walk through centuries of winemaking excellence, but also a celebration of Champagne’s future, where tradition and innovation unite in perfect harmony. A visit to Reims, France, would be incomplete without a stop at Maison Taittinger. From the awe-inspiring chalk cellars and historic Abbey remnants to the refined gastronomic experiences at Polychrome, it’s an immersion into the soul of Champagne.

Hester Creek Character Red 2023, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada – available at LCBO in August!

In an era where value matters more than ever, discovering a wine that over-delivers is a gift to the table, and Character Red 2023 is exactly that. This thoughtfully assembled blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah, and Italian-clone Merlot captures the warmth and energy of the 2023 vintage, one of the most sun-drenched in Okanagan history, with poise and purpose. Deep ruby in the glass, it opens with an evocative bouquet of dark plum, blackberry compote, desert sage, and a graphite minerality that echoes the stony soils of the Golden Mile Bench. On the palate, it punches well above its weight—bold yet balanced, with ripe fruit, gentle spice, and fine tannins carrying the flavour through to a clean, satisfying finish. Versatile, food-friendly, and full of heart, this gem is both an introduction to the serious potential of this sub-region and a reminder that great wine doesn’t always need to come at great cost. Whether poured beside a sizzling summer BBQ, a cozy winter stew, or a rustic spread of charcuterie, Character Red more than lives up to its name. One of the finest value reds on offer from the Golden Mile Bench. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Tasted July 2025. 90+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: 1 Mill Road Home Block Pinot Noir 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

From a warmer, more unpredictable vintage marked by forest fires and dramatic summer weather, the 2023 Home Block Pinot Noir shows impressive clarity and structure despite the challenges. Picked earlier to retain freshness, this single-vineyard wine from Dijon Clone 115 delivers vibrant cherry, wild herbs, graphite, and a distinct Black Sage nuance, reflecting the unique terroir of the sage-lined amphitheatre-shaped vineyard above Lake Okanagan. 25% whole cluster fermentation, a four-day cold soak, and 18 days on skins build depth and fine tannic grip, while 9 months in (28% new) French oak enhances structure without overpowering the generous fruit. Unfined and unfiltered, the purity and concentration shine through, making this a precise and cellar-worthy expression of Naramata Pinot. A step up in intensity from 2022’s elegant frame, this vintage blends power with restraint—an exciting evolution from this emerging Okanagan Cru. Highly recommended. Tasted July 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Benjamin Bridge Brut 2019

This impressive Blanc de Blancs from Nova Scotia's Gaspereau Valley captures the essence of cool-climate Chardonnay with both precision and charm. Inspired by grower Champagne, the 2019 Brut was crafted with care and intention—aged in 600L French demi-muids and allowed to undergo full malolactic fermentation, enhancing its texture and layered complexity. The nose is vibrant and expressive, offering an elegant medley of honeyed stone fruit, orchard pear, chamomile tea, and freshly baked brioche. On the palate, it’s electric—brisk acidity is balanced by a creamy, persistent mousse that amplifies the wine's core of juicy stone fruit and mineral depth. The four years of lees aging lend a refined autolytic character, with subtle pastry and citrus oil tones that echo long after each sip. An impressive sparkling wine that holds its own among top-tier Blanc de Blancs, this bottle is a testament to the world-class potential of Nova Scotia terroir for crafting fine traditional method sparkling wines. Drink now or cellar over the next 5+ years for added nuance.  Tasted July 2025. 93 points - Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV – June 30, 2025

Today on CTV Morning Live (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from all across Canada. These are wines which sommeliers across Canada and around the world are raving about the high quality and world-class nature that these wines have, similar to some of the finest wines from more storied wine regions in the world.  But nowadays you don’t need to look far in Canada to find exceptional quality wines that are both locally produced and absolutely delicious! As we prepare to celebrate Canada Day this is one of the best times to explore and enjoy Canadian wine as we’ve come a long way over the past half century and we’ve firmly secured our spot as a great wine-making nation!

wine review: Poplar Grove The Legacy 2019, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2019 is a tour de force of power, depth, precision and poise, an exceptional Bordeaux-style blend from the sun-drenched southern Okanagan Valley. A blend of 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec, this deeply coloured, opaque red is as commanding in the glass as it is on the palate.

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