This is a compelling sensory example demonstrating that underwater cellaring is not merely theatrical but, when executed with precision, can serve as a legitimate élevage method, influencing structural tension, mousse density, aromatic restraint, and preservation of freshness. Excellent now, but also a prime candidate for medium-term evolution under cork. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV
From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA
The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025
Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2023, Niagara River VQA
October 2025 Matt’s review: Reif Reserve Chardonnay 2023, sourced from the Niagara River Sub-appellation, is a benchmark example of how elegance and expressiveness can coexist beautifully with the richness of new French oak. Sourced from Reif’s oldest four-acre Chardonnay block planted in 1981, this wine carries a sense of heritage and terroir depth that defines... Continue Reading →
96 point wine review: Hester Creek Garland 2022, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC
The 2022 vintage—one of the finest on record in the Okanagan—has yielded what may be Hester Creek’s most complete and compelling Garland to date. This meticulously crafted blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec showcases the richness and refinement achievable on the sun-drenched slopes of the Golden Mile Bench. Picked between October 12 and November 9, the fruit from this stellar vintage is deeply expressive. The nose is inviting, layered, and refined, with dark fruit, black currant, tobacco leaf, graphite, and the signature Black Sagebrush and desert herbals that define southern Okanagan terroir. The palate is equally captivating—luscious and vibrant, with velvety tannins and a refreshingly polished mouthfeel that brings to mind the finesse of Bolgheri, the structure of Pomerol, and the power of Oakville. Yet for all those parallels, Garland 2022 is distinctly South Okanagan. Harmonious, concentrated, and beautifully framed, it’s a masterclass in balance and a showcase of the region’s potential. A brilliant wine from winemaker Mark Hopley and his team—elegant now and destined to evolve gracefully over the next 10+ years. Tasted July 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Look for it at Hester Creek, Bench Club, and throughout BC where fine wines are sold - $65+
wine review: Poplar Grove The Legacy 2019, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada
Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2019 is a tour de force of power, depth, precision and poise, an exceptional Bordeaux-style blend from the sun-drenched southern Okanagan Valley. A blend of 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec, this deeply coloured, opaque red is as commanding in the glass as it is on the palate.
wine review: Lailey Off-Dry Riesling 2022
Ottawa, ON February 2025 Matt's review: From Lailey's vineyards along the picturesque Niagara River Parkway, in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario, their off-dry Riesling is an elegant expression of premium Niagara Riesling. The nose shows a fragrant bouquet of orchard and stone fruit, apple, pear, with wildflower honey and floral blossoms and impressive steely minerality. The palate repeats,... Continue Reading →
Wine review: Hester Creek Garland 2020, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC
Ottawa, ON January 2024 Matt’s review: Situated high up on Golden Mile Bench in the heart of the Okanagan Valley, Hester Creek’s vineyards, including 50+ year old vines, produce expressive wines showcasing the greatness achievable in the Okanagan. Garland 2020 is a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec, hand harvested... Continue Reading →
wine review: Burrowing Owl Meritage 2017
Ottawa, ON August 2020 Matt's review: Meritage 2017, Burrowing Owl's flagship wine, is a blend of (59%) Cabernet Sauvignon, (20%) Merlot, (18%) Cabernet Franc, and (3%) Petit Verdot, all estate grown from their Oliver-based winery in the heart of the Okanagan Valley. Vinified and barrel-aged separately for 15 months in a blend of French and... Continue Reading →
wine review: Jackson-Triggs’ 2016 Entourage Grand Reserve Brut
Ottawa, ON June 2020 Matt's review: Jackson-Triggs' 2016 Entourage Grand Reserve Brut - A very impressive high quality sparking wine from this well known Niagara-on-the-Lake winery. At $29.95, Jackson-Triggs' Entourage Grand Reserve Brut has become a Sommelier favourite with each vintage given its consistent quality yet at a fraction of the price sparkling wines of... Continue Reading →
