That intersection between history and evolution helps explain why Friulano was such an appropriate subject for the first Collio Evolution. The Consorzio deliberately framed the inaugural edition around the past, present and future of Friulano, with subsequent editions intended to place different Collio varieties in the spotlight. That framing seems particularly appropriate because Collio itself continues to evolve. There are grapes that belong to a place because they are widely planted. Others become inseparable from a region because, over generations, they come to express something deeper about its landscape, traditions and people. In Collio, that grape is Friulano. Friulano may not be indigenous to Collio in the strict ampelographic sense, but few grapes are more culturally indigenous to a place. Over generations, it has become woven into the identity of Collio: grown across its hillsides, poured in local osterie, embraced by many of the denomination’s leading estates and interpreted in styles ranging from bright and immediately approachable to concentrated, site-specific wines capable of developing beautifully for well over a decade. The Consorzio Tutela Vini Collio describes Friulano as a wine of tradition and a symbol of the denomination’s identity and history. Today it represents approximately 15% of Collio production, although its importance to the region extends far beyond those numbers. That made it an obvious choice to take centre stage at the inaugural Collio Evolution, held October 26 and 27, 2025. The new annual event was conceived as an exploration of the past, present and future of Collio, with a different grape variety taking the spotlight each year. For its first edition, organizers chose Friulano, the Consorzio calling it the wine of tradition and one of the most representative symbols of Collio’s identity and history. It was a fitting choice because understanding Friulano is, in many ways, essential to understanding Collio itself. Different producers are exploring different interpretations of Friulano. Some favour exceptionally clean, precise and mineral expressions. Others pursue longer lees ageing or greater textural development. Some employ skin contact, as seen in wines such as Picech’s Athena. Others continue to work within more traditional interpretations of the variety. Friulano also remains important within the broader language of Collio Bianco, where it can interact with varieties such as Ribolla Gialla and Malvasia Istriana. Yet none of these developments requires abandoning tradition. That is perhaps the larger message behind Friulano today. The grape has already survived changing borders, political regimes, winemaking fashions and even the loss of the name by which generations knew it. Its historical origins may be more complicated than the word “indigenous” sometimes implies, but after generations in these hills its connection to Collio is no longer merely agricultural. It is cultural. And that is why Friulano can feel so completely native to Collio even when its ampelographic history tells a more complicated story. The older wines at Collio Evolution added another important dimension to that relationship. They demonstrated that Friulano is not simply capable of representing Collio when young. Given time, it can reveal another side entirely, more savoury, textural, complex and contemplative, yet still recognizably connected to the grape and the hills from which it came. From a fresh young Friulano poured alongside the foods of Friuli to a single-vineyard wine still thriving thirteen years after harvest, the variety occupies an unusually broad spectrum. It can be familiar and profound at the same time. Choosing it to launch Collio Evolution therefore felt less like selecting the first grape in a rotating series than making a statement about what Collio considers important. Before looking toward the future, start with the variety that has helped define the region’s past. Start with Friulano. Cheers!
Fracette: Ontario’s New Sparkling Wine Style Is Sparked by Ice
By Matt Steeves Ontario has earned an international reputation for Icewine and, increasingly, for exceptional traditional-method sparkling wine. Now, a new VQA sparkling wine category brings those two strengths together in a distinctly Canadian way. Introducing Fracette (pronounced frah-SET), a new Brut-style sparkling wine in which VQA Icewine is used to initiate the second fermentation... Continue Reading →
wine review: Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA
Kirby Estate Chardonnay 2022 While Niagara-on-the-Lake has earned its reputation for producing expressive, ripe red wines, it shines just as brightly with medium to full-bodied cool-climate Chardonnay. At Kirby Estate, the combination of mineral-rich lacustrine silt soils, warm days, cool nights and the moderating influence of Lake Ontario consistently yields fruit that achieves exceptional phenolic ripeness while retaining the vibrant natural acidity that defines the region's finest white wines. The exceptionally low-yielding 2022 vintage has produced a Chardonnay of remarkable concentration, elegance and precision. Aromas of ripe yellow apple, pear and white orchard fruit are layered with delicate baking spice, subtle hints of toasted brioche and pronounced seashell minerality. The palate is silky and beautifully textured, the result of full malolactic fermentation and twenty months in second-fill Damy Vosges Burgundian oak, yet remains vibrant and energetic. Ripe orchard fruit, citrus and crushed stone unfold across the palate before giving way to a long, mineral-driven finish that lingers with freshness and finesse. The restrained élevage allows the exceptional fruit and distinctive terroir to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay that recalls the balance and understated elegance of fine white Burgundy while remaining unmistakably Niagara. Another beautifully composed wine from Kirby Estate that reinforces the estate's growing reputation as one of Niagara's premier ultra-premium producers. Drink: 2026-2036+. Tasted July 2026. 94 Points Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: 2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13% ABV
2024 Sempre Mio Chardonnay recalls the elegance of fine white Burgundy, opening with yellow apple, white peach and delicate white blossoms before revealing hints of almond croissant, wet limestone and seashell minerality. The palate is both creamy and precise, balancing ripe orchard and stone fruit with vibrant acidity, subtle spice, and a long, textured mineral finish. The restrained oak frame allows the character of the Mio Vineyard to take centre stage, resulting in a Chardonnay of impressive purity, texture, and finesse. This is a wonderful expression of single vineyard Chardonnay from Niagara's Lincoln Lakeshore VQA which should be on your must try list! Tasted July 2026. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV and CFRA – June 19, 2026
Today on CTV Your Morning (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from across the country with special focus on regions such as Prince Edward County, Niagara, and British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, where wineries are producing wines with freshness, balance, elegance, complexity, and a true sense of place. These are the qualities that define many of the world’s greatest wines, and they are increasingly the qualities wine enthusiasts associate with Canadian wine. These wines highlight why Canada is now recognized as one of the most exciting cool-climate wine-producing countries in the world. The story of Canadian wine in 2026 is no longer about potential. It is about achievement. Ontario and British Columbia have become Canada’s superpowers for world-class wine, but the broader message extends across the country. Canadian wineries are producing wines that are refreshing, balanced, complex, food-friendly, age-worthy, and increasingly sought after by wine enthusiasts across Canada and around the world. From traditional method sparkling wine and elegant Chardonnay to expressive Pinot Noir, distinctive whites, and powerful red blends, Canadian wine has never been better. This Canada Day, support local. Drink Canadian. Explore the wines being produced in our own backyard. And discover why the world is paying more attention to what Canada is putting in the glass.
Volta Estate Winery — Prince Edward County’s New Visionary
Prince Edward County has never lacked for ambition, but Volta Estate Winery represents something altogether different — a bold, design-forward newcomer poised to reshape the region’s premium wine landscape. As the newest kid on the block in Hillier, Volta arrives with both serious intent and a long-term vision that extends well beyond the glass.
wine review: Noble Ridge “The One” 2019 traditional method sparkling wine, OK Falls, BC Canada.
Okanagan Falls continues to prove it can deliver world-class sparkling, and The One is a benchmark example: restrained, mineral-driven, and built on patience rather than flash. Elegant, focused, and beautifully aged—this is Canadian sparkling for Champagne lovers who value finesse over excess. Enjoy now and over the next 5 years. Tasted February 2026. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV
From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca
Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA
The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025
Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Reserve Chardonnay 2023, Niagara River VQA
October 2025 Matt’s review: Reif Reserve Chardonnay 2023, sourced from the Niagara River Sub-appellation, is a benchmark example of how elegance and expressiveness can coexist beautifully with the richness of new French oak. Sourced from Reif’s oldest four-acre Chardonnay block planted in 1981, this wine carries a sense of heritage and terroir depth that defines... Continue Reading →
