High on the slopes of Mount Etna, Mediterranean sunshine, mountain elevation, ancient vines and successive layers of volcanic lava converge to produce some of Italy’s most distinctive wines. Exploring Etna during Sicilia en Primeur, I discovered the remarkable diversity of Nerello Mascalese and Carricante, the increasingly precise expression of individual contrade, and an appellation whose quality now extends far beyond a handful of celebrated producers. Etna’s wines may be born from fire, but they are defined by freshness, elegance and an extraordinary sense of place.