wine review: Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA Nestled in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Kirby Estate is positioning itself among Canada’s top-tier producers. Proprietors Scott and Maria Kirby have spared no effort in showcasing the full potential of their distinctive K-shaped estate vineyards (as depicted on their label). Supported by renowned viticulturalist Craig Wismer and winemaker Matt Smith, their philosophy is clear: precision farming, meticulous selection, and an uncompromising pursuit of quality. The 2020 Signature Merlot represents the pinnacle of their craft. Sourced from 18-year-old vines planted in sandy loam soils, the grapes were handpicked in two lots (October 24 and November 7) at 23+ and 25+ brix, highlighting both patience and confidence in the growing season. After cold soaking, wild yeast fermentation, and 20 months in French oak (new and neutral), the wine was bottled unfiltered in July 2022 at 15.7% ABV. This alone speaks volumes about the exceptional ripening achieved in this cool-climate region. Signature Merlot 2020 is a deep ruby colour with a subtle garnet rim. Fragrant and layered, offering sweet plum, blackberry, blueberry pie, cassis, and dark cherry, supported by savoury herbs, graphite, and crushed stone. A vibrant expression of both vintage ripeness and vineyard precision. Silky and powerful with exceptional texture. Velvety tannins frame concentrated dark fruit and spice, gradually unfolding into a long, graceful finish. Despite its 15.7% power, the wine remains refreshing and balanced, with cool-climate acidity adding lift and elegance to the full-bodied intensity. A defining expression of Niagara Merlot: rich, structured, and beautifully composed, capturing remarkable ripeness while staying true to its origin. The 2020 Signature Merlot is a testament to what can be achieved when ambition, talent, and terroir align. The finest Niagara Merlot I’ve tasted. Enjoy now with a 2 hour decant or cellar and enjoy over the next 15–20 years. Tasted November 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: 2023 Sempre Mio “Primo Mio” Chardonnay, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario 13.8% ABV

From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration. On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Wine review: Reif Estate Winery Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2020, Niagara River VQA

The 2020 vintage continues to demonstrate why Niagara’s warmest sub-appellation, the Niagara River VQA in Niagara-on-the-Lake, is so well suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. The nose opens with savoury dark fruit, plum, Italian herbs, black pepper, and graphite - a beautifully layered and terroir-driven expression. On the palate, the dark fruit core repeats alongside youthful tannins that soften beautifully with time. After a two-hour decant, the wine truly begins to sing - refined, balanced, and serious in every respect. The finish lingers with graphite mineral tones and savoury fruit that persist gracefully. Decant before serving and enjoy this elegant, structured Cabernet over the next decade as it evolves in complexity and depth. Tasted November 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Coming to LCBO November 22, 2025

wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

World-Class Canadian Wines for Canada Day – As aired on CTV – June 30, 2025

Today on CTV Morning Live (and later on CFRA News Talk 580), Sommelier Matt Steeves was presenting some of his top-rated Canadian wines from all across Canada. These are wines which sommeliers across Canada and around the world are raving about the high quality and world-class nature that these wines have, similar to some of the finest wines from more storied wine regions in the world.  But nowadays you don’t need to look far in Canada to find exceptional quality wines that are both locally produced and absolutely delicious! As we prepare to celebrate Canada Day this is one of the best times to explore and enjoy Canadian wine as we’ve come a long way over the past half century and we’ve firmly secured our spot as a great wine-making nation!

Domaine Queylus ‘Réserve du Domaine’ Chardonnay 2022 – Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Crafted from carefully selected parcels on the Niagara Peninsula, this wine is powerful yet refined. Aged in high-quality oak barrels, it’s a Chardonnay that delivers depth and elegance in equal measure. Orchard fruit, crème brûlée, spice, and toasty oak form a complex profile. 🍏 A full-bodied, textured Chardonnay with fine balance and long finish. Perfect for lobster, creamy risotto, or roast pork. $48.50 (winery-direct)

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