wine review: Albino Armani Cuslanus Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Riserva 2020 (estimated release 2028)

Albino Armani’s long history in the Veneto, documented over four centuries, continues to flourish through a deep commitment to traditional techniques, high-altitude viticulture, and site-driven expressions of Valpolicella. Their Riserva-tier Amarone, Cuslanus, is sourced from some of the region’s most elevated vineyards, including parcels reaching 500 metres above sea level, where cooler temperatures and steady mountain breezes preserve freshness and shape the wine’s trademark lift and aromatic precision. Cuslanus Riserva 2020 is the finest vintage of this wine I’ve tasted to date. It opens with an impressive array of rich dark fruit, layered with a beautiful medley of sweet spice, brandied cherry, and chocolate, creating an elegant yet gently opulent aromatic profile. The palate is both refined and refreshing, a hallmark of the high-altitude vineyards from which the wine is sourced. There is a clarity and vibrancy to the fruit, remarkably balanced by a subtle richness that speaks to the harmony achieved in this vintage. The structure is poised, the tannins polished, and the overall impression one of finesse and quiet depth. With its combination of freshness, elegance, and concentrated flavour, this is a superb Amarone Riserva that will reward cellaring and will stand out as one of the estate’s great vintages. Tasted February 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

winery profile: Rizzini – Franciacorta, Italy

Founded in 1985, Rizzini is a small, family-owned winery in the heart of Franciacorta, Italy, dedicated exclusively to crafting vintage Blanc de Blancs sparkling wines from their 'single cru' vineyard. Nestled at the base of the Monticelli Brusati hills, their two-hectare estate was replanted in 1995 and 2000, focusing entirely on Chardonnay — where they have been focused on producing the finest expressions of traditional method sparkling wine from their unique terroir each year.

97 points wine review: Zýmē Amarone della Valpolicalla Classico 2019 (barrel sample)

2019 Zýmē Amarone showcases the excellence of the 2019 vintage and demonstrates what is possible with this iconic winery. Celestino Gaspari, the winemaker behind Zýmē, is now one of the most renowned names in Valpolicella winemaking. His journey began alongside the iconic Giuseppe Quintarelli, arguably the most revered producer in Valpolicella history. These formative years working with Quintarelli laid the foundation for Gaspari's progressive and curious approach, which has led Zýmē to become one of the most respected ultra-premium wineries in Valpolicella.

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