Celestino Gaspari, the winemaker behind Zýmē, is now one of the most renowned names in Valpolicella winemaking. His journey began alongside the iconic Giuseppe Quintarelli, arguably the most revered producer in Valpolicella history. These formative years working with Quintarelli laid the foundation for Gaspari’s progressive and curious approach, which has led Zýmē to become one of the most respected ultra-premium wineries in Valpolicella.

Zýmē’s portfolio reflects Gaspari’s passion for pushing boundaries. Alongside super expressive ‘traditional’ Valpolicella wines, he crafts IGT wines that are among the most sought after in the world. Gaspari’s meticulous attention to detail in both the vineyards and the winery, combined with his patient and low-intervention approach, underscores his overarching goal: to consistently produce the highest quality wines possible each vintage. This commitment has garnered a cult-like following for his wines globally.

Gaspari remains humble, acknowledging that his wines have not yet reached the pinnacle he strives for. This sentiment is symbolized on some labels, where incomplete words represent the ongoing journey to create increasingly impressive wines each vintage. For instance, his Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOGC 2019 label includes only “Ama,” suggesting there’s still room for improvement to earn the remaining (“rone”) letters. Gaspari’s dedication to perfection, honed over decades of crafting some of the world’s most sought-after wines, is evident.

After tasting the 2019 Amarone, alongside previous vintages and wines from Quintarelli, it’s clear that the 2019 Amarone already deserves more of those letters. Its complexity and harmony make it a rare, flawless wine that is well on its way to perfection. However, Gaspari’s pursuit of excellence means he will likely continue pushing the boundaries, showcasing the true potential of Valpolicella wines.

Matt’s review of Zýmē 2019 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG. A blend of Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 15%, Oseleta 10%, and Croatina 5%, all dried for 3+ months then fermented for another 2+ months with native yeast before a long (5+ years) rest in large Slovenian oak. When tasted in February 2024, a barrel sample, the wine had not yet been bottled but would soon be with an anticipated 2025 release date after a minimum 1 year in bottle. Medium ruby with a slight garnet hue, the nose shows a complex bouquet of dried red fruit, spice, sweet tobacco, match stick, and balsamic evergreen notes. The palate revels the mastery of this assemblage of appassimento grapes, with layers upon layers of elegantly textured dried fruit, sweet spice, so deep, fresh and harmonious.  Although not yet deemed ready for release, it’s showing beautifully now with great balance and depth. 2019 was a 5 star vintage and this Zýmē Amarone showcases what was possible. With 3+ decades of ageing potential, this wine will be outstanding when paired with braised dishes, Risotto All’Amarone, firm cheese, or simply on its own. Enjoy 2025 to 2050+ Tasted February 2024. 97 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Tasting the 2019 Amarone with winemaker Celestino Gaspari