Wine review: Benjamin Bridge Underwater Quest NV Brut Rosé

This is a compelling sensory example demonstrating that underwater cellaring is not merely theatrical but, when executed with precision, can serve as a legitimate élevage method, influencing structural tension, mousse density, aromatic restraint, and preservation of freshness. Excellent now, but also a prime candidate for medium-term evolution under cork. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Collectible Amarone: The Top Wines of the 2020 Vintage

Collectible Amarone: The Top Wines of the 2020 Vintage - A First Look at Amarone 2020: A Vintage of Elegance, Energy & Exceptional Balance. Full details at http://www.quercusvino.ca #Amarone #Anteprima #Valpolicella #Italy #Sommelier #Wine #TopRated #MustTry #WineAficionado #Verona #AmaronePreview #Cellarworthy #Backupthetruck #Winetime #2020Amarone #Corvina #LakeGarda #OperaPrima #Anteprima #WineCollecting #Cellaring #Consorzio

wine review: Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA

Kirby Estate Signature Merlot 2020 – Niagara-on-the-Lake VQA Nestled in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Kirby Estate is positioning itself among Canada’s top-tier producers. Proprietors Scott and Maria Kirby have spared no effort in showcasing the full potential of their distinctive K-shaped estate vineyards (as depicted on their label). Supported by renowned viticulturalist Craig Wismer and winemaker Matt Smith, their philosophy is clear: precision farming, meticulous selection, and an uncompromising pursuit of quality. The 2020 Signature Merlot represents the pinnacle of their craft. Sourced from 18-year-old vines planted in sandy loam soils, the grapes were handpicked in two lots (October 24 and November 7) at 23+ and 25+ brix, highlighting both patience and confidence in the growing season. After cold soaking, wild yeast fermentation, and 20 months in French oak (new and neutral), the wine was bottled unfiltered in July 2022 at 15.7% ABV. This alone speaks volumes about the exceptional ripening achieved in this cool-climate region. Signature Merlot 2020 is a deep ruby colour with a subtle garnet rim. Fragrant and layered, offering sweet plum, blackberry, blueberry pie, cassis, and dark cherry, supported by savoury herbs, graphite, and crushed stone. A vibrant expression of both vintage ripeness and vineyard precision. Silky and powerful with exceptional texture. Velvety tannins frame concentrated dark fruit and spice, gradually unfolding into a long, graceful finish. Despite its 15.7% power, the wine remains refreshing and balanced, with cool-climate acidity adding lift and elegance to the full-bodied intensity. A defining expression of Niagara Merlot: rich, structured, and beautifully composed, capturing remarkable ripeness while staying true to its origin. The 2020 Signature Merlot is a testament to what can be achieved when ambition, talent, and terroir align. The finest Niagara Merlot I’ve tasted. Enjoy now with a 2 hour decant or cellar and enjoy over the next 15–20 years. Tasted November 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

Sicily’s Volcanic Soul: Discovering the Wines of an Ancient Island

Sicily stands tall among Italy’s top wine-producing regions—not just for its scale, but for the extraordinary transformation it has undergone. As Italy’s largest wine region, with 23 DOCs, one DOCG, and nearly a quarter million acres under vine, Sicily was once associated with mass production and bulk exports. But over the past two decades, the island has shifted dramatically toward quality, terroir-driven wines that are now earning international acclaim—including growing attention here in Canada. With ancient varieties, extreme terroirs, and a generation of winemakers focused on quality and sustainability, Sicily has arrived! Its wines are expressive, authentic, and increasingly available to Canadian consumers looking for something special yet accessible. Keep an eye out for these labels at the LCBO and top wine shops—or better yet, plan your own visit. Sicily isn’t just a vacation destination that happens to make wine. It’s a wine destination that will stay with you long after the glass is empty.

wine review: Cloudsley Wingfield Vineyard Chardonnay 2023, Twenty Mile Bench, Niagara Escarpment, Ontario

June 2025 Matt's review: From one of Niagara’s most compelling single vineyards, Cloudsley's 2023 Wingfield Vineyard Chardonnay delivers a stunning expression of cool-climate winemaking and site-specific nuance. The Wingfield Vineyard, planted in 1993 with Clone 76 Chardonnay, lies just uphill from the celebrated Foxcroft Vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench, yet it carves its own... Continue Reading →

wine review: Poplar Grove The Legacy 2019, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2019 is a tour de force of power, depth, precision and poise, an exceptional Bordeaux-style blend from the sun-drenched southern Okanagan Valley. A blend of 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec, this deeply coloured, opaque red is as commanding in the glass as it is on the palate.

wine review: York Vineyards 2018 Brut, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

York Vineyards, Canada’s first dedicated sparkling wine house, delivers an exceptional traditional method cuvée with their 2018 Brut — a masterclass in precision, patience, and expressive winemaking. Crafted entirely from 100% Pinot Gris, it was aged an impressive 60 months on the lees, with one-third raised in 500L amphora and the remaining two-thirds in French oak, offering a layered and complex aromatic and flavour profile. This is a serious and thrilling Canadian sparkling wine, crafted with uncompromising attention to detail. A standout bottle that confirms York Vineyards’ bold vision for Canadian sparkling wine at the highest level. Tasted June 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves

Italy’s best white wines which you’ve probably never heard of…

When wine lovers think of Italian viticulture, it’s often the iconic reds that spring to mind—Barolo, Brunello, Amarone—names synonymous with gravitas and longevity. And when they think of Italian whites, the selection tends to be narrower: the crisp friendliness of Pinot Grigio, the celebratory charm of Prosecco. But for those willing to step off the beaten path, Italy offers a treasure trove of white wines of astounding depth and finesse—nowhere more so than in the Collio DOC. Tucked into Italy’s northeast, along the Slovenian border in Friuli Venezia Giulia, Collio is a hilly, sun-soaked amphitheatre of rolling vineyards, ancient soils, and quietly ambitious producers. Here, terroir is king, tradition runs deep, and white wine—yes, white wine—is a serious art form. Known for its structured, mineral-driven whites with age-worthy potential, Collio offers a far broader and more profound expression of Italian white wine than most consumers ever get to see. The very name Collio comes from colli, Italian for hills—and hills dominate this landscape. Vineyards must be planted on slopes to carry the DOC designation, maximizing sun exposure and drainage while capturing the cool night air that helps grapes retain their acidity. But it’s the soil that truly defines this place: Ponca, a friable marl and sandstone matrix layered over eons, infuses Collio wines with a signature minerality and tactile tension. Add to that a microclimate shaped by the Julian Alps to the north and the Adriatic Sea to the south, and you have the perfect recipe for complexity and elegance: warm, dry days that encourage ripeness; cool nights that lock in freshness; and winds that keep vineyards healthy and vibrant. This article highlights why you should seek out Collio DOC wines when you can.

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