wine review: Drea’s Wine Co. 2023 Single Vineyard collection from Niagara on the Lake, ON

Andrea Kaiser’s Drea’s Wine Co. is one of Niagara-on-the-Lake’s most exciting boutique wineries, producing single-vineyard, low-intervention wines that beautifully capture the character of this unique terroir. Crafted in small quantities, these wines are not only deeply personal—dedicated to her late father, Canadian winemaking pioneer Karl J. Kaiser—but also proudly reflective of the land and the legacy she continues to build.

Special Club Champagne – Terroir and Talent

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is Le Club Trésors de Champagne, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression. Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club — a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

Divergence Blanc de Blancs 2020, Hughes Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore VQA, Ontario

If you haven’t heard of Divergence and the premium wines they’re crafting from some of Niagara’s finest single vineyards, consider this your introduction (you can thank me later for the recommendation 😉)! Winemaker and proprietor Jeff Moote is producing small-lot, high-quality wines that are quickly earning attention, just as I discovered first-hand this summer at the Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara, where his 2020 Blanc de Blancs left me and other wine professionals in awe. Sourced from the Hughes Vineyard in the Lincoln Lakeshore, this single-vineyard traditional method sparkling Chardonnay is a textbook example of the precision, complexity, and potential of cool-climate Niagara Chardonnay. Hand-picked and whole-cluster pressed, it balances the richness of the warm 2020 vintage with bright acidity and remarkable finesse. Barrel-fermented and aged six months on primary lees in old French oak before spending 42 months en tirage, it has developed superb texture, elegance, and layered complexity. On the palate, it shines with flinty minerality, salted croissant, and orchard fruit-filled pastry notes, all carried on a refined and elegant frame. A beautifully structured and age-worthy wine, Divergence’s 2020 Blanc de Blancs is a brilliant expression of both site and craft. Hats off to winemaker Jeff Moote — an exceptional wine that will shine bright for many years. Enjoy 2025-2035. Tasted July 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

wine review: Les Jamelles Rouge Osé 2024 now at LCBO

Some red wines truly shine when served chilled, and Rouge Osé 2024 from Les Jamelles is the perfect introduction to that refreshing style. Just as a crisp rosé finds its stride on a hot summer’s day, this lively, light-bodied red shows how wonderfully vibrant and quaffable chilled reds can be. In the glass, Rouge Osé shimmers a bright ruby red. Aromas of cran-cherry, raspberry, and wild strawberry leap out, joined by perfumed floral notes, a touch of spice, and a hint of cool menthol. The palate is crisp, crunchy, and bursting with red fruit, delivering both freshness and lift. Low tannins and a silky texture make it irresistibly drinkable, especially when slightly chilled in the summer sun. Food pairings? Think light and easy: charcuterie boards, grilled fish, fresh tartare, white meats, or simply pizza with friends. But make no mistake—this wine is equally enjoyable all on its own, served chilled on a warm afternoon. At $17.95 (LCBO), it’s a great deal. Les Jamelles Rouge Osé is fun, refreshing, and a must-try for anyone curious about chilled reds. Highly recommend checking it out this summer and discovering for yourself just how great a light-bodied red can be when served cold. Tasted August 2025. 89 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Taittinger Uncorked: From Roman Stone to Michelin Stars

My visit to Taittinger was not only a walk through centuries of winemaking excellence, but also a celebration of Champagne’s future, where tradition and innovation unite in perfect harmony. A visit to Reims, France, would be incomplete without a stop at Maison Taittinger. From the awe-inspiring chalk cellars and historic Abbey remnants to the refined gastronomic experiences at Polychrome, it’s an immersion into the soul of Champagne.

Sicily’s Volcanic Soul: Discovering the Wines of an Ancient Island

Sicily stands tall among Italy’s top wine-producing regions—not just for its scale, but for the extraordinary transformation it has undergone. As Italy’s largest wine region, with 23 DOCs, one DOCG, and nearly a quarter million acres under vine, Sicily was once associated with mass production and bulk exports. But over the past two decades, the island has shifted dramatically toward quality, terroir-driven wines that are now earning international acclaim—including growing attention here in Canada. With ancient varieties, extreme terroirs, and a generation of winemakers focused on quality and sustainability, Sicily has arrived! Its wines are expressive, authentic, and increasingly available to Canadian consumers looking for something special yet accessible. Keep an eye out for these labels at the LCBO and top wine shops—or better yet, plan your own visit. Sicily isn’t just a vacation destination that happens to make wine. It’s a wine destination that will stay with you long after the glass is empty.

Soren Boundary Spring Red 2022, Similkameen Valley, BC, Canada

The latest from Canadian Master of Wine, Geoffrey Moss' label, Soren, is their Boundary Spring Red blend from the Similkameen Valley in British Columbia on the west coast of Canada. Situated just on the other side of the Okanagan Valley's Golden Mile Bench, in a rugged mountainous area where the days are hot and the nights cool, producing exceptionally ripe and refreshing big reds. A blend of 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, 18% Merlot, 12% Malbec, and 5% Syrah from a single vineyard, it bursts with fragrant desert herbs, Black Sage, savoury dark fruit, plum, tobacco, and earthy notes. The palate repeats with fine integrated tannins, savoury and drying, making this a wonderful wine to enjoy with hearty dishes, braised, or charcoal-grilled steaks and root vegetables. Showing great now, it will continue to evolve over the next 5+ years but no need to wait to enjoy this complex Similkameen Valley red blend, conveniently available at LCBO this August. Tasted July 2025, 93 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

Hester Creek Character Red 2023, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada – available at LCBO in August!

In an era where value matters more than ever, discovering a wine that over-delivers is a gift to the table, and Character Red 2023 is exactly that. This thoughtfully assembled blend of Petit Verdot, Malbec, Syrah, and Italian-clone Merlot captures the warmth and energy of the 2023 vintage, one of the most sun-drenched in Okanagan history, with poise and purpose. Deep ruby in the glass, it opens with an evocative bouquet of dark plum, blackberry compote, desert sage, and a graphite minerality that echoes the stony soils of the Golden Mile Bench. On the palate, it punches well above its weight—bold yet balanced, with ripe fruit, gentle spice, and fine tannins carrying the flavour through to a clean, satisfying finish. Versatile, food-friendly, and full of heart, this gem is both an introduction to the serious potential of this sub-region and a reminder that great wine doesn’t always need to come at great cost. Whether poured beside a sizzling summer BBQ, a cozy winter stew, or a rustic spread of charcuterie, Character Red more than lives up to its name. One of the finest value reds on offer from the Golden Mile Bench. Enjoy now and over the next few years. Tasted July 2025. 90+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

96 point wine review: Hester Creek Garland 2022, Golden Mile Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC

The 2022 vintage—one of the finest on record in the Okanagan—has yielded what may be Hester Creek’s most complete and compelling Garland to date. This meticulously crafted blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec showcases the richness and refinement achievable on the sun-drenched slopes of the Golden Mile Bench. Picked between October 12 and November 9, the fruit from this stellar vintage is deeply expressive. The nose is inviting, layered, and refined, with dark fruit, black currant, tobacco leaf, graphite, and the signature Black Sagebrush and desert herbals that define southern Okanagan terroir. The palate is equally captivating—luscious and vibrant, with velvety tannins and a refreshingly polished mouthfeel that brings to mind the finesse of Bolgheri, the structure of Pomerol, and the power of Oakville. Yet for all those parallels, Garland 2022 is distinctly South Okanagan. Harmonious, concentrated, and beautifully framed, it’s a masterclass in balance and a showcase of the region’s potential. A brilliant wine from winemaker Mark Hopley and his team—elegant now and destined to evolve gracefully over the next 10+ years. Tasted July 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca Look for it at Hester Creek, Bench Club, and throughout BC where fine wines are sold - $65+

wine review: 1 Mill Road Home Block Pinot Noir 2023, Naramata Bench, Okanagan Valley, BC, Canada

From a warmer, more unpredictable vintage marked by forest fires and dramatic summer weather, the 2023 Home Block Pinot Noir shows impressive clarity and structure despite the challenges. Picked earlier to retain freshness, this single-vineyard wine from Dijon Clone 115 delivers vibrant cherry, wild herbs, graphite, and a distinct Black Sage nuance, reflecting the unique terroir of the sage-lined amphitheatre-shaped vineyard above Lake Okanagan. 25% whole cluster fermentation, a four-day cold soak, and 18 days on skins build depth and fine tannic grip, while 9 months in (28% new) French oak enhances structure without overpowering the generous fruit. Unfined and unfiltered, the purity and concentration shine through, making this a precise and cellar-worthy expression of Naramata Pinot. A step up in intensity from 2022’s elegant frame, this vintage blends power with restraint—an exciting evolution from this emerging Okanagan Cru. Highly recommended. Tasted July 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves - http://www.quercusvino.ca

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