wine review: York Vineyards 2018 Brut, Niagara-on-the-Lake, ON

June 2025

Matt’s review: York Vineyards, Canada’s first dedicated sparkling wine house, delivers an exceptional traditional method cuvée with their 2018 Brut — a masterclass in precision, patience, and expressive winemaking. Crafted entirely from 100% Pinot Gris, it was aged an impressive 60 months on the lees, with one-third raised in 500L amphora and the remaining two-thirds in French oak, offering a layered and complex aromatic and flavour profile.

From the first pour, you’re greeted with a deeply expressive nose — brioche, toasted almond, and complex autolytic character leap from the glass, alongside a beautiful core of pear, crisp stone fruit, green apple, chamomile, and wet stone minerality. The fruit and savory components are in perfect harmony, thanks to the thoughtful élevage and extensive lees contact.

The palate is dry, vibrant, and strikingly textured, showing off a fine, energetic mousse that amplifies the wine’s zesty citrus, orchard fruit, and saline qualities. Notes of lemon peel, almond croissant, and chalky minerality ride on a structured frame that feels both lifted and substantial. The amphora aging contributes subtle oxygenation and a fine-grained grip, enhancing the wine’s mouthfeel and length.

This is a serious and thrilling Canadian sparkling wine, crafted with uncompromising attention to detail. Nearing seven years from harvest, it is astonishingly fresh, yet layered and mature — a hallmark of world-class sparkling winemaking. It drinks beautifully now and I expect it to evolve gracefully over the next 8–10 years.

Pair it with everything from salmon tartare to lemongrass chicken, or simply enjoy it with good company and great conversation. A standout bottle that confirms York Vineyards’ bold vision for Canadian sparkling wine at the highest level. Tasted June 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct $65