December 2025

by: Matt Steeves

Each year, a small handful of wines rise unmistakably above the rest—bottles that don’t simply impress, but define what greatness looks like in their place of origin. The top-rated wines I tasted this year from Canada, Champagne, and across Italy represent the absolute pinnacle of craftsmanship, terroir expression, and ambition. These are wines made without compromise, where precision meets emotion, and regional identity is expressed with clarity and confidence. From cool-climate Canadian vineyards delivering finesse and mineral tension, to the timeless brilliance of Champagne, and the profound depth and heritage found throughout Italy’s greatest appellations, these selections stand shoulder-to-shoulder with the world’s finest. Together, they tell a compelling story of what is possible when vision, site, and skill align—wines that proudly showcase the extraordinary heights their regions can achieve on the global stage.

Canada

Canada continues to assert itself as one of the most compelling cool-climate wine nations in the world, producing wines of precision, texture, and unmistakable sense of place. From Niagara’s limestone-driven benches and lake influence to the sun-soaked yet balanced vineyards of the Okanagan Valley, the best Canadian wines today rival the finest expressions from classic Old World regions. The selections highlighted here showcase not only technical excellence and site specificity, but also ambition—wines crafted with patience, confidence, and a clear international outlook. These bottles reflect a country fully in stride, where Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, and traditional-method sparkling wines are achieving truly world-class stature.

York Vineyards, Canada’s first dedicated sparkling wine house, delivers an exceptional traditional method cuvée with their 2018 Brut — a masterclass in precision, patience, and expressive winemaking. Crafted entirely from 100% Pinot Gris, it was aged an impressive 60 months on the lees, with one-third raised in 500L amphora and the remaining two-thirds in French oak, offering a layered and complex aromatic and flavour profile.

From the first pour, you’re greeted with a deeply expressive nose — brioche, toasted almond, and complex autolytic character leap from the glass, alongside a beautiful core of pear, crisp stone fruit, green apple, chamomile, and wet stone minerality. The fruit and savory components are in perfect harmony, thanks to the thoughtful élevage and extensive lees contact.

The palate is dry, vibrant, and strikingly textured, showing off a fine, energetic mousse that amplifies the wine’s zesty citrus, orchard fruit, and saline qualities. Notes of lemon peel, almond croissant, and chalky minerality ride on a structured frame that feels both lifted and substantial. The amphora aging contributes subtle oxygenation and a fine-grained grip, enhancing the wine’s mouthfeel and length.

This is a serious and thrilling Canadian sparkling wine, crafted with uncompromising attention to detail. Nearing seven years from harvest, it is astonishingly fresh, yet layered and mature — a hallmark of world-class sparkling winemaking. It drinks beautifully now and I expect it to evolve gracefully over the next 8–10 years.

Pair it with everything from salmon tartare to lemongrass chicken, or simply enjoy it with good company and great conversation. A standout bottle that confirms York Vineyards’ bold vision for Canadian sparkling wine at the highest level. Tasted June 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct $65

Cloudsley Cellars focuses exclusively on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and they do it exceptionally well. This Chardonnay is mineral-driven, with citrus, orchard fruit, and subtle oak — very much in the Burgundian style, but distinctly Niagara. It’s a brilliant reflection of our cool-climate potential.

From one of Niagara’s most compelling single vineyards, Cloudsley’s 2023 Wingfield Vineyard Chardonnay delivers a stunning expression of cool-climate winemaking and site-specific nuance. The Wingfield Vineyard, planted in 1993 with Clone 76 Chardonnay, lies just uphill from the celebrated Foxcroft Vineyard on the Twenty Mile Bench, yet it carves its own identity — perched at a slightly higher elevation, nestled beside a grove of old-growth trees. The resulting microclimate offers longer hang time, a slower, more measured ripening curve, and the potential for extraordinary elegance, particularly in balanced vintages like 2023.

The nose is lifted and expressive: orchard fruit, ripe pineapple, and honeydew melon interplay with cool marine-like seashell minerality and delicately integrated oak spice. There’s a gentle exotic edge here too, adding dimension without veering out of balance. On the palate, this wine is harmonious, polished, and precise. The orchard fruit carries through beautifully, framed by creamy yet refreshing acidity and a subtle textural weight that speaks to both vintage and vineyard pedigree. At 13% alcohol, it’s impressively ripe yet composed — a testament to the site’s ability to achieve full phenolic maturity while preserving freshness and finesse. This is premium Niagara Chardonnay at its best — complex, terroir-driven, and age-worthy. While it’s already drinking beautifully, offering generous fruit and precision today, it will undoubtedly continue to evolve gracefully over the next 8–12 years, gaining further depth and sophistication. A Cru-level wine from a Cru-level site. Cloudsley’s 2023 Wingfield is a brilliant showcase of what the Twenty Mile Bench can deliver when site, clone, and craft align perfectly. Tasted June 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct $53

Black Bank Hill 2022 Chardonnay

Winemaker Jonathan McLean, with a decade of experience creating exceptional wines in the Okanagan Valley, joined Black Bank Hill in 2021. His expertise and stylistic influence is evident in this estate-grown Chardonnay from their Lincoln Lakeshore VQA vineyard in Beamsville, crafted from clones 95 and 548. The wine undergoes barrel fermentation and 18 months of élevage on its lees in French oak, then bottled without fining to highlight the purity of this single vineyard.

On the nose, expect aromas of yellow apple, pear, buttered toast, lemon loaf, spring blossoms, marzipan, mandarin citrus, flint, and stone fruit. The palate delivers a creamy and impressive body with a slightly oily yet harmonious and refreshing texture, showcasing layers of orchard fruit, almond croissant, buttered lemon loaf, and a touch of minerality.

This Chardonnay is exceptionally well-balanced, combining a full-bodied character with refreshing qualities. It’s thrilling to see this emerging winery producing such impressive wines that remind me of some of the Okanagan’s greats. A nod to the exceptional ability of Niagara’s terroir to produce world-class cool-climate wines. Keep an eye on Black Bank Hill, as this could become one of the top rated Canadian wines in the years to come. Tasted April 2025. 95 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct $50

Domaine Queylus ‘Réserve du Domaine’ Chardonnay 2022 – Niagara Peninsula, Ontario

Crafted from carefully selected parcels on the Niagara Peninsula, this wine is powerful yet refined. Aged in high-quality oak barrels, it’s a Chardonnay that delivers depth and elegance in equal measure.
$48.50 (winery-direct)

This is a confident, full-bodied Chardonnay that beautifully captures the sophistication of Niagara fruit and winemaking. From the glass, it opens with inviting aromas of ripe yellow apple, summer meadow, banana chips, and lemon meringue pie, supported by gentle toasted oak and a lift of linen breeze. On the palate, it’s creamy and richly textured, yet balanced by zesty orchard fruit and a vibrant thread of limestone minerality that adds focus and freshness. The oak is well-integrated, framing the fruit without overpowering it. There’s a distinct lemon tart finish that lingers and refreshes. This is a Chardonnay that marries richness with refinement—equally suited to food pairings like butter-poached seafood or roasted poultry, or enjoyed on its own for its sheer presence and poise. A standout effort from Domaine Queylus, and a benchmark for Ontario Chardonnay. Tasted May 2025. 93+ points – Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Thirty Bench Small Lot Chardonnay Extended Barrel Aged 2021 – Beamsville Bench, Ontario

Hailing from one of Niagara’s premier sub-appellations, this extended barrel-aged Chardonnay is opulent, silky, and impeccably crafted. The Beamsville Bench’s unique terroir—characterized by clay-rich soils and limestone bedrock—shines through in the wine’s complexity. $36.00 (winery-direct)

This is a beautifully poised, terroir-driven Chardonnay that speaks with quiet confidence and Burgundian grace. From the first swirl, the nose is lifted and detailed, offering delicate stone fruit, orchard fruit, pear, crisp apple, and a subtle brush of floral and mango tones, all underlined by a vibrant limestone minerality that immediately evokes the Beamsville Bench. The palate is where this wine truly shines: zesty citrus, wet stone, and fine spice unfold in a layered, elegant profile. There’s superb freshness and restraint, with lightly toasted oak framing — not masking — the wine’s complex fruit and lively texture. The result is a Chardonnay of precision, finesse, and quiet power. More in the style of fine white Burgundy than a common New World expression, this wine showcases what the Bench does best: elegance, freshness, and completeness. A top-tier effort from Thirty Bench and a strong statement on the potential of Niagara Chardonnay. Tasted May 2025. 94+ points. Cellar-worthy, but compelling now. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2022 – Okanagan Valley, British Columbia

This bold and beautifully ripe Chardonnay is grown on the Black Sage Bench in Oliver, BC—known for its warm days, cool nights, and gravelly soils. These conditions allow the fruit to develop richness and concentration while retaining freshness. Available winery-direct $35+

This impressive Okanagan Chardonnay from Burrowing Owl Estate Winery is yet another shining example of the world-class wines emerging from Canada’s Wine Capital. Nestled along the Black Sage Road in Oliver, BC, Burrowing Owl continues to craft expressive, terroir-driven wines that reflect the unique climate and soils of their estate vineyards. While the 2022 vintage began with cooler-than-usual conditions, it ultimately ranked among the top six warmest growing seasons on record. Remarkably, the wine retains the hallmark freshness of that cool start—an attribute that adds vibrancy and elegance.

In the glass, it shows a pale golden yellow with glints of green. The nose is delicately perfumed with vibrant citrus, crisp pear, yellow apple, lemon tart, and a whisper of jasmine tea and dessert herbs. On the palate, it’s full-bodied yet incredibly poised, with an elegant creaminess and mouthwatering acidity. There’s a beautiful layering of orchard fruit, lemon curd, and yellow apple, accented by subtle wood spice and framed with finesse. The oak is restrained and expertly integrated, lending gentle structure without overshadowing the purity of the fruit. Compared to richer vintages—those expressing golden apple, hazelnut, and butterscotch—the 2022 is more lifted and aromatic, showcasing precision and energy while still delivering the creamy, layered texture for which Burrowing Owl is known. Pair it with grilled seafood, roast poultry, or autumn squash bisque. This is arguably the most elegant Chardonnay yet from Burrowing Owl—ready to enjoy now, or worthy of cellaring for 5+ years to reveal further complexity. Tasted May 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

From the first vintage of Corey Mio’s Chardonnay project, “Primo Mio” is a single-barrel expression from the estate’s Mio Vineyard, a cuvée so distinct and expressive that it earned its own label and name. The nose is beautifully complex, opening with ripe orchard fruit, pear, and a touch of pineapple, framed by delicate spice and subtle oak integration.

On the palate, it’s creamy yet refined, with vibrant white orchard fruit and spice carrying through to a long, refreshing finish. A delicate seashell minerality emerges late, adding a sense of place and salinity that speaks to the cool-climate terroir of Lincoln Lakeshore. An exceptional debut Chardonnay, polished, textural, and full of promise. A shining example of why Niagara’s single-vineyard Chardonnays continue to impress on the world stage. Enjoy over the next decade+. Tasted November 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Checkmate 2021 Little Pawn Chardonnay 

With each vintage CheckMate further demonstrates their exceptional winemaking artistry highlighting the great potential of the impressive vineyards they work with to craft their world-class wines.  While 2021 brought unprecedented challenges during the growing season, the team at CheckMate delivered the consistent high-quality standard of wine they’re renowned for.  Little Pawn is a blend of Chardonnay clones 76 and ‘Dekleva’ sourced from the Jagged Rock Vineyard in the Okanagan Highland foothills along the Black Sage Bench.  

An elegant light gold colour, the nose shows an alluring bouquet of orchard fruit, mingling with subtle tropical notes and zesty citrus. Aromas of luscious baked apple and a touch of lemon custard dance harmoniously, while hints of sea shells create a fascinating mineral complexity — a nod to the vineyard’s glacially-formed sandy and gravelly soils. On the palate, Little Pawn reveals its true character. The initial sip reveals a delightful explosion of flavors, showcasing the fresh tension brought by the clone 76 vines. Each layer unfolds with creamy elegance, enveloping the senses in a divine texture. The interplay of fragrant fruit and refined structure is beautifully balanced, with fine tannins that add to the textured finish. The wine’s finish is long and expressive, persisting for minutes.  Little Pawn delivers an impressive harmony of freshness, richness, and complexity, making it a standout in the realm of Okanagan Chardonnay.  It’s a stunning expression of the Okanagan’s potential, and despite the challenges of the vintage, it beautifully showcases the great terroir and talent responsible for crafting this world-class wine.  Tasted bottle #3213 December 2024.  96+ points.  Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca 

Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 – Lincoln Lakeshore (Niagara), Ontario – $40 winery-direct

Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 from Lincoln Lakeshore VQA is a wine that demonstrates remarkable complexity, balance, and the distinctive flinty character from its Niagara terroir. On the nose, this wine opens with an intriguing mix of dark fruit aromas—plum, raspberry, and a touch of blueberry turnover—mingling beautifully with delicate floral notes, Earl Grey tea, alongside a flinty minerality and the earthy sweetness of roasted beets. These aromas combine to create a nuanced and multi-layered bouquet that invites deep exploration. On the palate, elegant and beautifully composed. Medium to full-bodied, it reveals a repeating pattern of dusty plum, raspberry, black tea, and graphite, which carry through from the nose with great persistence. The balance between fruit, structure, and acidity is impressive. Proprietor/vintner Taylor Emmerson and winemaker Jonathan McLean have beautifully crafted a wine that is sophisticated, complex, yet so approachable. Fine, ripe tannins frame the wine’s complexity, offering a smooth yet substantial mouthfeel. The acidity adds freshness, while the wine’s rich fruit and savory depth linger on a long, pleasant finish. For those seeking a nuanced, terroir-driven wine, Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 offers an exciting opportunity to experience the potential of this region and how big reds can shine in Niagara. Its deep, complex flavors and structured elegance make it a perfect candidate for medium-term cellaring, though its current expression is perfectly primed for enjoyment as soon as it’s released in late March/early spring 2025.

Black Bank Hill Cabernet Franc 2022 is a stellar example of Niagara Cabernet Franc, offering a complex mix of fruit, savory notes, and minerality. At $40 a bottle, this wine delivers great value for collectors and enthusiasts alike, offering both immediate enjoyment and medium-term aging potential. Tasted March 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

The 2022 vintage—one of the finest on record in the Okanagan—has yielded what may be Hester Creek’s most complete and compelling Garland to date. This meticulously crafted blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 9% Petit Verdot, and 4% Malbec showcases the richness and refinement achievable on the sun-drenched slopes of the Golden Mile Bench.

Picked between October 12 and November 9, the fruit from this stellar vintage is deeply expressive. The nose is inviting, layered, and refined, with dark fruit, black currant, tobacco leaf, graphite, and the signature Black Sagebrush and desert herbals that define southern Okanagan terroir. The palate is equally captivating—luscious and vibrant, with velvety tannins and a refreshingly polished mouthfeel that brings to mind the finesse of Bolgheri, the structure of Pomerol, and the power of Oakville. Yet for all those parallels, Garland 2022 is distinctly South Okanagan. Harmonious, concentrated, and beautifully framed, it’s a masterclass in balance and a showcase of the region’s potential. A brilliant wine from winemaker Mark Hopley and his team—elegant now and destined to evolve gracefully over the next 10+ years. Tasted July 2025. 96 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Look for it at Hester Creek, Bench Club, and throughout BC where fine wines are sold – $65+

Burrowing Owl’s 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon is a wonderful example of the beautifully textured Cabernet Sauvignon the Okanagan Valley is capable of producing. Burrowing Owl’s vineyards along the Black Sage Bench and in Osoyoos feature coarse-textured, free-draining soils of sand and gravel, the legacy of high-energy meltwater and glacial outburst floods dating back 10k-15k years. These soils, combined with the region’s intense summer heat and varied topography, create a terroir ideal for cultivating Cabernet of both great structure and finesse.

2022 Cabernet opens with a fragrant bouquet of dark plum, ripe blackberry, and cracked pepper, underpinned by a lively freshness and the region’s hallmark desert botanicals. Subtle notes of graphite, sandalwood, and a quiet earthiness hint at the gravel-rich soils from which the vines draw their character. On the palate, it speaks clearly of its southern Okanagan origins: layered, expressive, and beautifully balanced. Dense black cherry and warm spice intermingle with herbal complexity—black sage making its mark—woven into a framework of fine, dusty tannins. The structure is confident yet polished, a reflection of the high quality fruit Burrowing Owl is producing in their vineyards that benefit from a southern valley desert climate with some of the highest growing degree-day accumulations in BC’s interior. Compelling now, yet built to evolve gracefully through 2035. A natural pairing with grilled steak, rosemary-crusted lamb, or aged artisanal cheeses. Tasted June 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery direct

From a warmer, more unpredictable vintage marked by forest fires and dramatic summer weather, the 1 Mill Road 2023 Home Block Pinot Noir shows impressive clarity and structure despite the challenges. Picked earlier to retain freshness, this single-vineyard wine from Dijon Clone 115 delivers vibrant cherry, wild herbs, graphite, and a distinct Black Sage nuance, reflecting the unique terroir of the sage-lined amphitheater-shaped vineyard above Okanagan Lake.

25% whole cluster fermentation, a four-day cold soak, and 18 days on skins build depth and fine tannic grip, while 9 months in (28% new) French oak enhances structure without overpowering the generous fruit. Unfined and unfiltered, the purity and concentration shine through, making this a precise and cellar-worthy expression of Naramata Pinot. A step up in intensity from 2022’s elegant frame, this vintage blends power with restraint—an exciting evolution from this emerging Okanagan Cru. Highly recommended. Tasted July 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

The Legacy is Poplar Grove’s flagship wine — Cab Sauv, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cab Franc, Malbec — rich, structured, and layered with black fruit, mocha, cedar, and spice. It’s elegant, age-worthy, and built to impress. Think of it as Canada’s answer to Bordeaux.

Poplar Grove’s The Legacy 2019 is a tour de force of power, depth, precision and poise, an exceptional Bordeaux-style blend from the sun-drenched southern Okanagan Valley. A blend of 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 20% Petit Verdot, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 1% Malbec, this deeply coloured, opaque red is as commanding in the glass as it is on the palate.

The bouquet is stunning—layered and expressive—with rich black fruit, black currant, damson plum, and blueberry compote leading the charge. Beneath the fruit, complex savoury notes of dusty black sage, crushed graphite, peppercorn, and sweet baking spices rise gracefully, hinting at the wine’s Okanagan terroir and meticulous winemaking. Vinified dry (less than 1 g/L residual sugar), The Legacy delivers a beautifully ripe and concentrated palate that remains wonderfully balanced. Polished, suede-like tannins provide a refined structure, while vibrant acidity and a distinct graphite minerality give freshness and depth. The finish is long, resonant, and terroir-driven—showcasing desert herbs, wet stone, and a lingering echo of black sage.

This is a remarkable, age-worthy red—elegant yet intense, restrained yet expressive. Easily one of the finest Okanagan reds I’ve tasted in the past two decades. Poplar Grove continues to elevate the Canadian wine scene with benchmark expressions like this that are crafted to enjoy now and structured to age as long as you’d like. Enjoy over the next quarter century. Tasted June 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Available winery-direct and at select wine boutiques across Canada.

Champagne

Champagne remains the global benchmark for sparkling wine—an unparalleled intersection of terroir, tradition, and time. At its best, Champagne is not simply celebratory; it is profound, cerebral, and endlessly expressive of chalky soils and centuries of savoir-faire. The wines featured here exemplify why Champagne continues to stand alone: precision viticulture, long lees aging, and a mastery of balance that delivers both immediacy and extraordinary aging potential. These are wines that transcend trends, reaffirming Champagne’s role as the gold standard against which all great sparkling wines are measured.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Grand Crus Blanc de Blancs 2013

Created in 1952, this cuvée pays homage to the noble Comtes de Champagne, notably Thibaud IV, whose seal adorns every bottle. Made from 100% Chardonnay grapes sourced exclusively from the Grand Cru villages of the Côte des Blancs—Avize, Cramant, Chouilly, Mesnil-sur-Oger, and Oger—this wine epitomizes Taittinger’s elegant, mineral-driven style. Each of the 288 hectares of vineyards is tended with care and overseen by their Chief Viticulturist, Christelle Rinville. Grapes are harvested only at peak ripeness and pressed separately to preserve their individual character. Only the first pressing is used, with a small portion (~5%) aged in new French oak barrels from Burgundy and Cognac, to enhance the wine’s complexity. The wine then undergoes its magical transformation deep in the chalk cellars, aging silently on its lees for over a decade. The current release, Comtes de Champagne 2013, is a masterpiece that already displays radiant energy and depth. It’s fresh, floral, with citrus zest, lavender, brioche, and minerality. The palate is vibrant, incredible tension with a mineral-focused finish which persists for minutes. With decades of potential ahead, it is a wine to be treasured. I scored it 99+ points—the most memorable Blanc de Blancs I’ve tasted, and a shining example of the pinnacle of Champagne production.

Grower Champagne & LE CLUB “trésors de Champagne depuis 1971”

While many know Champagne through famous houses like Taittinger, Krug, Lanson, Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon, there is a growing movement of Récoltants-Manipulants (grower-producers) who farm their own vineyards and craft wines that express their unique terroir. Among the elite is LE CLUB “trésors de Champagne depuis 1971”, a group (currently of) 25 exceptional growers (including the three featured producers below) united by a commitment to quality, authenticity, and terroir expression.

Within Le Club, the pinnacle of achievement is the Special Club, a bottle shape and designation reserved only for the very best cuvée(s) each grower produces in outstanding vintages. To be chosen as a Special Club Champagne, a wine must pass multiple blind tastings by a jury of fellow Le Club members and external oenologists, both as a still base wine and also post-second fermentation, generally 3+ years later before the wine is considered for commercial release. If the jury all agree that the wine merits the honour of carrying the Special Club label then it is permitted to be sold as a Special Club Champagne, in the distinctive, slightly antique-shaped bottle first used in 1971, signaling to collectors and connoisseurs that they are holding something rare and something that represents the height of Champagne craftsmanship.

While Special Club wines are luxurious, they are first and foremost living records of terroir and time, distilled into sparkling form. They are the product of chalk, climate, craft, and centuries of experience. And in every cork’s pop, you can hear Champagne’s past and present in perfect harmony.

Meet the Producers — Special Club Standouts

While I was in Reims, France (the epicenter of Champagne) this past summer I had the opportunity to meet with three exceptional grower-producers whom are members of Le Club and each produce Special Club Champagne most vintages. We met at Le Club’s wine boutique/tasting bar in downtown Reims to taste some of their impressive vintage Champagnes. We also took the opportunity to talk about their wineries, their vineyards in various Crus where their Champagnes are born, and various quality-focused requirements of Le Club which go over and above the already strict rules of the Champagne AOC for producing their respective Champagnes.

Forget-Chemin – Winery located in Ludes, Montagne de Reims (Premier Cru)
Winemaker: Thierry Forget – President of Le Club
The Premier Cru of Ludes lies on the northern Montagne de Reims, where the chalky slopes are often topped with thin clay soils. Forget-Chemin’s vineyards, spread across 11 Crus (13 ha in total), and benefit from excellent drainage with a microclimate that allows Pinot Meunier to shine alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Thierry Forget crafts Champagnes that balance orchard fruit brightness with creamy texture, underpinned by minerality from the deep chalk under his vineyards and which his winery is situated on and carved into to reach his deep winemaking and cellar facilities.

Thierry’s work is vineyard-first: he spends 90% of his time among the vines. His parcels are planted to Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a significant portion of Pinot Meunier, a variety often underappreciated but key to Champagne’s character. During a walk through his vineyards, Thierry explained the name Meunier, which is French for “miller”, which refers to the fine, flour-like dust on the underside of its leaves, just as the miller at a grain mill is covered in white flour.

Forget-Chemin’s wines are marked by elegance, precision, and ageability. A tasting of a 1979 vintage, poured from a dusty bottle in Thierry’s cellar, revealed a golden amber hue with fine bubbles, nutty complexity, and vibrant acidity that had endured for 45 years. It was a testament to the estate’s old-vine Chardonnay and the meticulous care given to each wine. A remarkable experience hearing the ‘pop’, seeing the colour of this aged Champagne, and finally tasting the vibrant wine right there in the winery. It’s experiences like that which make you a believer and deepen your passion for these ultra premium wines of unparalleled provenance.

His 2019 Special Club (90% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir) was a masterclass in tension and depth — citrus, green apple, light brioche, and white blossom dancing over a long, saline finish. The Chardonnay bringing elegance and tension while the touch of Pinot Noir adding structure and depth. It’s a wine built to evolve – harmonious, energetic, and destined for greatness over the decades. When I asked Thierry why he didn’t do a full Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) he explained that while the structure would have been great, the Pinot Noir added the necessary complexity effectively elevating the wine to it’s best expression of the vintage and proudly rendering it his 2019 Special Club cuvée. “For me, Special Club is about bottling the purest voice of our vineyards in their best years,” says Forget.

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 Henri Goutorbe – Winery located in Aÿ-Champagne (Grand Cru, Vallée de la Marne)
Winemaker: Etienne Goutorbe
Aÿ-Champagne is one of Champagne’s most celebrated Grand Cru villages, known for its south-facing slopes and deep chalk deposits overlaid with thin soils — perfect for Pinot Noir of power and finesse. Henri Goutorbe’s 22 ha of vines across 9 Crus produce wines that marry ripe red fruit with a chalky backbone and remarkable longevity. The 2012 Special Club Grand Cru (70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay) offers black cherry, wild strawberry, toasted brioche, and spice, finishing with a mouthwatering minerality. Henri Goutorbe’s Special Club showcases Aÿ Grand Cru provenance first, and the vintage second, explained Etienne, “Aÿ terroir is timeless.” Tasting it confirmed that remarkable longevity with vibrant character and impressive complexity. A beautifully aged Special Club which will shine for decades more.

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 Vazart-Coquart et Fils – Winery located in Chouilly (Grand Cru, Côte des Blancs)
Winemaker: Jean-Pierre Vazart
Chouilly’s Grand Cru vineyards sit on pure chalk, yielding Chardonnay of crystalline elegance and vivid minerality. Vazart-Coquart farms 11 ha, 95% planted to Chardonnay, with a focus on biodynamic principles and minimal intervention. Their Special Club Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay) captures the Côte des Blancs’ signature style, citrus zest, white flowers, almond, and a chalky, sea-breeze finish. “Special Club is our way of saying: this is Chouilly at its most beautiful,” notes Jean-Pierre.

Why You Should Seek Out Special Club Champagne

For Champagne lovers, discovering Special Club cuvées is like finding a secret menu of the region’s most compelling wine, limited, terroir-driven, and only made in exceptional years. These wines aren’t mass-produced or widely distributed, especially not in North America. But for those fortunate enough to come across a bottle, the experience is unforgettable.

The Club’s wines rival and often exceed those of the grandes marques, yet they carry the intimate signature of the vigneron who farmed, fermented, and bottled them. With the rise of grower Champagne in global markets, Special Club bottles offer unrivaled value, uniqueness, and prestige.

Franciacorta, Italy

Franciacorta has firmly established itself as Italy’s most serious traditional-method sparkling wine region, crafting wines of depth, structure, and unmistakable identity. Built on morainic soils left behind by ancient glaciers, Franciacorta’s best cuvées combine richness with tension, offering a distinctive alternative to Champagne while maintaining the highest technical standards. The wines selected here highlight the region’s commitment to extended aging, meticulous élevage, and terroir expression—sparkling wines of authority and refinement that continue to elevate Italy’s standing in the world of fine bubbles.

Founded in 1985, Rizzini is a small, family-owned winery in the heart of Franciacorta, Italy, dedicated exclusively to crafting vintage Blanc de Blancs sparkling wines from their ‘single cru’ vineyard. Nestled at the base of the Monticelli Brusati hills, their two-hectare estate was replanted in 1995 and 2000, focusing entirely on Chardonnay — where they have been focused on producing the finest expressions of traditional method sparkling wine from their unique terroir each year.

Rizzini’s Franciacorta Blanc de Blancs is distinguished by its exceptionally fine bubbles, intricate aromatics, and profound textural richness, resulting in wines of both elegance and intensity. Their unwavering dedication to quality and tradition places them among the most respected long-aged sparkling wine producers in Franciacorta, although their low production means you’re unlikely to find them widely available in your market, making them a rare gem alongside the big sparkling houses.

2010 Selezione Extra Brut. 12.5% ABV, 144 months (12 years) sur lees. 3g/L. Disgorged April 2023. There’s a richness which is counter balanced with exceptional refreshing citrus character. The nose shows baked apple, pear, honey, and floral notes. The palate is harmonious with all components singing in perfect harmony. Great acidity, the lime zest and minerality persisting with fine tannins adding textural complexity. This is a stunning expression showing the potential of single vineyard long lees aging Franciacorta. Enjoy over the next two decades. 96+ points. Tasted February 2025. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

2005 Nature Riserva. 120 months sur lees. Disgorged May 2016. A masterclass in vintage sparkling wine, showcasing exceptional complexity and depth, this wine embodies the best of classic traditional method wine, with distinct Franciacorta DNA. Its expressive lees influence is beautifully apparent, with inviting aromas of toasted bread and rich, nutty almond character that deepen with each swirl. On the palate, it mirrors these notes with remarkable complexity, as the long aging process allows the wine to reveal layers of flavour with a creamy mousse texture. Vibrant and energetic, this single-vineyard beauty highlights the benefits of both extended lees aging and bottle maturation—nearly a decade of each has resulted in a wine with outstanding structure and balance. After two decades it’s in pristine shape – a perfect example of why investing in premium sparkling wines from cru vineyards will reward those with the foresight and patience. Highly recommended. 96 points. Tasted February 2025. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Collio Italy

Collio is one of Italy’s most refined and intellectually compelling white-wine regions, where elegance, minerality, and terroir transparency reign supreme. Nestled along the Slovenian border, Collio’s ponca soils—a friable mix of marl and sandstone—produce wines of remarkable tension, texture, and longevity. The region’s greatest wines marry Alpine freshness with Adriatic influence, resulting in whites that are simultaneously powerful and restrained. The selections highlighted here reflect Collio at its finest: site-driven, age-worthy wines that speak quietly but confidently, rewarding attention with nuance, depth, and a profound sense of place.

Collio DOC is nestled in the far northeast of Italy, along the Slovenian border, at the foothills of the Julian Alps and near the shores of the Adriatic Sea. A 2.5-hour train ride east from Verona takes you to the city of Trieste, a beautiful city with a strong Central European feel, thanks to its proximity to Slovenia and Croatia. Once the main seaport of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Trieste is now home to the iconic Illy Coffee company and serves as the gateway to the nearby Collio DOC wine region, just a short drive away.

The name “Collio” translates to “hilly area” or “little hills” in Italian—aptly describing the region’s landscape, as all vineyards within Collio DOC must be situated on hills to be part of the denomination. When driving through this small region you quickly appreciate its name, as there are small undulating hills in every direction with the backdrop of the majestic snowcapped Julian Alps to the north.

Collio DOC is renowned in Italy and neighbouring countries where their wines are mostly sold and consumed. Upwards of 85% of Collio’s wines are consumed domestically, leaving very little for international markets, especially ones as far away as Canada. So if you haven’t had the pleasure of trying Collio DOC wines, don’t take it personally. It’s not you — it’s them. Most bottles are spoken for well before they even think about crossing the Atlantic.

The Collio DOC region is renowned for its production of white wines, with approximately 88% of the vineyards dedicated to white varietals and the remaining 12% to reds. If you haven’t yet explored Collio’s whites — including their unique skin-fermented ‘orange’ wines — now’s the time to discover some of Italy’s most complex and expressive bottles. Here are a few of my favs:

Castello di Spessa Collio Bianco DOC San Serff 2015 – A blend of Pinot Bianco, Fruilano, Sauvginon Blanc. This premium offering is aged 8 years prior to release, something that may seem bizarre for other white wines of the world but not for Collio DOC wines, especially their Collio Bianco blends which tend to really shine with a decade or more of cellar refinement. Light gold colour, the nose has great intensity with a complex bouquet of orchard fruit, tropical and floral notes. The palate offers refreshing orchard and citrus fruit chalky minerality, and a long mineral finish. Youthful with a long life ahead of it. Enjoy over the next twenty years. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Primosic Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2019 Collio DOC – a beautiful expression of Primosic’s skin fermented Ribolla Gialla, which the the past two decades they’ve honed their technique and aligned with the terroir to produce some of the most vibrant, elegant, and harmonious wines in Collio. Tasted in a T95 glass, designed specifically for their skin fermented (orange wine) Ribolla Gialla, the copper colour invites the nose which reveals a complex bouquet of honeyed stone fruit, citrus, orange rind, and savoury balsamic notes. The palate is elegant and layered repeating the aromatic profile with great length on the finish. Enjoy over the next decade. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Sturm Sauvignon 2023 – Everyone has to try the unique expressions of Collio Sauvignon to see for themselves just how great they are. Completely different than New Zealand’s often pungent style, Collio Sauvignon Blanc like that from Sturm and this organic one in particular which was sourced from a Cru vineyard in the Russiz area of Collio from 35 year old vines planted high on the hill. Light gold colour, the nose is quite rich, with honeyed notes, citrus, almond biscotti, pear and floral notes. Remarkably rich, with refreshing exotic fruit, zesty chamomile tea, almond, and pronounced minerality persisting. A stellar expression of Collio Sauvignon which highlights the unique character of this varietal. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Paraschos, from San Floriano del Collio, in the far north east of Collio, has grown a reputation for producing expressive, bold, skin-fermented wines that don’t hold anything back. Their direct press wines are exceptional too, such as the Paraschos 2022 Sauvignon Riserva. Sourced from a new Cru vineyard in their portfolio near Gradis’ciutta, named JZB for Jazbine that means Giasbana, the small part of the village of San Floriano del Collio where the vineyard is located. They waited for the grapes to achieve perfect maturation at harvest, then their low intervention winemaking took over…allowing spontaneous fermentation on wild yeasts (no commercial yeast in their winery), with two years of aging in large Slovenian oak barrels (10-25hl) on fine lees. Bottled without filtration resulting in a super expressive wine, showing ripe fruits, stone fruits, exotic fruits, citrus zest, herbs, and a touch of chamomile tea. This expression of Sauvignon is pure terroir and highlights the ability they have to make world-class wines across their portfolio. This is an intriguing wine that I plan to follow as it evolves over the next decade and as winemaker Jannis Paraschos fine-tunes working with this impressive new Cru vineyard in their portfolio. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Bolzicco Collio Bianco DOC “Vigne da Mont” 2021. From a sun-drenched, south-facing vineyard on the flank of Monte Quarin, nestled within the commune of Cormòns and brushing the Slovenian border, Bolzicco’s single-vineyard Collio Bianco DOC “Vigne da Mont” is a masterclass in harmony, depth, and regional expression. A blend of 60% Friulano and 40% Ribolla Gialla, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 12 months in seasoned barriques. On the nose, it opens with waves of ripe orchard and stone fruits—yellow apple, lemon curd, and dried apricot—woven together with nuances of almond croissant and delicate baking spice. The palate is both taut and generous: a textured interplay of freshness and richness, underpinned by a vein of minerality that lingers gracefully on the long, persistent finish. “Vigne da Mont” captures the essence of Collio’s Ponca soils and elevates it through thoughtful winemaking. This is a wine that is already stunning but promises to evolve beautifully over the next two decades. A benchmark Collio Bianco from a five star vintage. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Livon Malvasia Collio DOC ‘Soluna’ – Sourced from the esteemed Ruttars Cru in the northwestern reaches of Collio, in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s Malvasia “Soluna” is a strikingly expressive and terroir-driven white that captures the wild elegance of its origin. On the nose, Soluna unfurls with a smoky allure—fumé, wood smoke, and flint—layered over ripe stone fruit, apricot, apple, and wild herbs. This savory aromatic complexity offers a deeply evocative first impression. The palate is no less compelling: vibrant orchard fruits—pear, apple—give way to honeyed stone fruit richness, balanced by a firm streak of saline minerality. The finish is long, textured, and mouthwatering, echoing the wine’s smoky and mineral undertones with a persistent, salty lift. A refined and characterful expression of Malvasia, Soluna is drinking beautifully now but has the structure and depth to evolve over the coming years. Tasted February 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Livon Friulano Collio DOC “Manditocai” 2022 – From the revered Manditocai vineyard in Ruttars, nestled in the northwestern reaches of Collio in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s 2022 Friulano “Manditocai” delivers a sophisticated and deeply rooted expression of the region’s signature white varietal. With its south and southwest exposure and classic Ponca soils (marl and sandstone), the site offers ideal conditions for ripening Friulano with both richness and tension. Fermented half in French oak barriques and half in stainless steel, and aged for 8 months before blending, the wine achieves a seamless balance of fruit purity and refined structure. Pale gold colour, the nose is layered and evocative, opening with fragrant floral notes, Marigold blossoms, summer meadow, stonefruit, touch of petrol, and a faint herbaceous note completes the bouquet. More yellow flower, citrus, peach, and minerality on palate. It’s fresh and energetic. Friulano is a great variety for representing terroir and Manditocai 2022 shines bright with precision and poise. Tasted February 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco ‘Col Disôre’ 2021 – Nestled in the picturesque hills of Collio DOC in Italy, the Russiz Superiore Cru vineyard has been in the Felluga family since 1967, although the estate’s roots trace back to 1648, when Russiz Superiore was first identified. Now the family’s sixth generation winemaker, Ilaria Felluga leads the winery including the production of their Collio Bianco ‘Col Disôre’ meaning the highest part of the hill.

Col Disôre is a blend of Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Sauvignon. Fermented in oak, and aged on its lees for a year before bottling. Produced only in the best vintages, for which 2021 was a steller vintage throughout Collio and this blend beautifully showcases the strength and elegance of the vintage. Super elegant profile, it’s harmonious and lively offering a fragrant bouquet of orchard fruit and stone fruit, lemon zest, and acacia blossom. This wine is showing wonderful now and will only continue to gain complexity over the next decade and beyond. Enjoy 2025-2040. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points.  Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco Col Disôre 2017

This exquisite white wine showcases a rich yellow color adorned with golden hues, promising elegance from the very first glance. The aromatic profile is captivating, offering a fragrant bouquet of nectarine, baked apple, citrus, almond croissant, honey, and acacia blossom that evoke the lush landscapes of its origin. On the palate, Col Disôre reveals a silky, creamy and rounded texture, skillfully balancing sapidity and freshness, culminating in a long, refreshing finish with almond croissant, wildflower honey, citrus, and minerality persisting for minutes.  

Crafted from a harmonious blend of Pinot Bianco, Friulano, Sauvignon, and Ribolla Gialla, this wine embodies the unique characteristics of Collio’s hilly terrain. The region’s famed Flysch (or Ponca) soil—a stratified mix of marl and sandstone formed from ancient ocean floors—imparts a rich mineral quality and creates as ideal environment for cultivating exceptional white grape varietals. It’s no wonder why Collio DOC is renowned for producing many of Italy’s finest white wines.  

This 2017 was showing beautifully after several years of bottle refinement, with 10-15 more years of aging potential.  Highly recommend experiencing the magic of Collio with the Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco Col Disôre, a remarkable wine that reflects the greatness achievable at Marco Felluga, and throughout this enchanting Italian region. Tasted January 2025.  95 points.  Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca 

Valpolicella Italy

Valpolicella is a region defined by contrast and complexity, capable of producing wines that range from vibrant and accessible to some of Italy’s most profound and age-worthy reds. At its pinnacle, Valpolicella—particularly through Amarone and elite terroir-driven expressions—delivers extraordinary depth, structure, and longevity without sacrificing balance or elegance. The wines highlighted here represent the summit of what the region can achieve: meticulous fruit selection, thoughtful appassimento, and a modern sensitivity to freshness and finesse. These are wines that honor tradition while confidently pushing Valpolicella forward on the world stage.

Tedeschi Maternigo Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva 2016, sourced from the Barila vineyard on the Maternigo estate in eastern Valpolicella. 2016, a five star vintage, also marks the inaugural vintage of Riserva Amarone for Tedeschi from the Barila single vineyard. This beautiful cru vineyard, although early in its tenure under Tedeschi’s care, is already showing promise for producing some of the finest wines available in Valpolciella. A blend of 40% Corvina, 40% Corvinone, and 20% Rondinella, the grapes were harvested early fall then underwent 100 days of appassimento (grape withering/drying), 40-day fermentation, 90-day maceration, followed by 48 months in Slavonian oak, then four years and counting of bottle refinement – all contributing to its impressive depth, harmony and overall complexity. From the moment you approach the glass, this Amarone entices with its impressive aromatic complexity. The nose offers an inviting blend of dried dark fruit, black cherry, a touch of spice, with hints of cacao and wet stone minerality that add depth and intrigue. The palate repeats these rich flavors, layering cassis and plum over a backdrop of well-integrated tannins and vibrant acidity all in a very elegant package. The finish is long with great intensity, demonstrating the wine’s impressive depth and balance. A wine of great structure, showcasing the quality of the Barila vineyard, the careful winemaker’s touch, and the resulting potential for long term aging. While already in a beautiful spot, it will undoubtedly evolve gracefully over the next 3-4 decades, rewarding those with the patience to defer gratification as the wine continues to develop and refine its complexity.

This inaugural vintage of Maternigo Amarone Riserva represents the promising future of the Barila vineyard. While I’m eager to taste the 2019 vintage (another 5 star vintage) down the road, the 2016 is an outstanding expression of ultra premium Amarone which you’ll want to add to your cellar. A must-have for collectors and connoisseurs who appreciate enjoying the best of Valpolicella’s terroir. Enjoy now, or let it rest for years to come—either way, it promises an exceptional experience. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points – Matt Steeves http://www.quercusvino.ca

Tasting 100 Amarone wines: A First Impression of the 2020 Vintage

At this year’s Anteprima Amarone Opera Prima events in Verona, I tasted nearly one hundred Amarone wines from the 2020 vintage. The stylistic diversity was striking, from pale, elegant expressions reminiscent of Burgundy to deep, intense, brooding examples with formidable structure. Despite these wide-ranging styles, a defining common thread emerged across the region: a remarkably high baseline of structural quality, balance, and finesse. The 2020 wines are immediately attractive yet clearly built for the long haul, a compelling combination that speaks to the inherent strength of the vintage.

From Power to Precision: A New Era for Amarone

Following the exceptional five-star 2019 vintage, 2020 continues Valpolicella’s evolution toward wines defined by elegance, transparency, and a clear sense of place. In the early 2000s, Amarone was often made in a heavily extracted, powerful style designed to make an immediate impression. Today, more producers, especially those who never abandoned their traditional, site-driven philosophies, are embracing a more terroir-focused approach, allowing the vineyards themselves to shape the wine rather than chasing trends or points. Amarone is increasingly characterized by authenticity, balance, and a heightened expression of its origins.

Even as climate change presents new challenges, Valpolicella’s producers continue to adapt with sophistication and skill. Recent vintages, including 2020, show that the region is capable of crafting beautifully balanced, expressive wines that honour the traditions of Valpolicella while evolving with the realities of the modern climate. This is an especially inspiring moment to follow the region’s wines, with Amarone remaining its unmistakable crown jewel, a wine of profound depth, individuality, and soul, shaped by grapes and techniques that exist in perfect harmony.

Standout Amarone wines from 2020

Below are the standout wines from my tastings. Bottles that distinguished themselves through precision, personality, and potential. As they become available in markets around the world over the coming months and years, keep an eye out; they will make outstanding additions to any serious cellar.

Fasoli Gino “Alteo” Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 (17.5%)

Fasoli Gino Alteo Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020 – 17.5% – Founded in 1925 and known for its commitment to organic and artisanal production, Fasoli Gino is one of Valpolicella’s most respected family wineries. Their flagship Amarone, Alteo, is crafted exclusively from vineyards planted on the highest slopes of Valpolicella, where a mix of clay and limestone soils contributes natural minerality, tension, and structural depth. These elevated, well-ventilated sites allow the grapes to ripen gradually, developing intense concentration while preserving freshness.

The fruit for Alteo is manually harvested in early fall, then undergoes approximately four months of appassimento—the traditional withering process that intensifies sugars, aromatics, and structure. After a slow, patient fermentation, the wine matures in barriques for a minimum of three years before an additional year of bottle aging, ensuring complexity, integration, and longevity. This meticulous, time-honored approach yields a powerful yet detailed Amarone of great character and aging potential.

The 2020 Alteo Amarone immediately captured my attention for its rich, rustic, and layered personality. The nose is expressive and evocative, delivering savory dark fruit, dried fruit, fig, potpourri, and forest floor, all unfolding in beautifully interwoven layers. On the palate, the wine is deep, concentrated, and texturally impressive, with flavours of cassis, dried cherry, spice, and warm, earthy undertones. The length is exceptional, carrying its richness with confidence and balance. Despite its power (17.5%), the wine remains poised, driven by the minerality and structure imparted by its high-elevation clay-limestone vineyards. This is a robust, complex, and beautifully crafted Amarone—showing wonderfully now, with the depth and stamina to evolve gracefully over the next two decades. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Zýmē di Celestino Gaspari Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2020

Zýmē, founded by the legendary Celestino Gaspari, is one of Valpolicella’s most innovative and quality-driven estates. An artisanal winery where deep regional knowledge meets cutting-edge precision. Gaspari, long regarded as one of the foremost interpreters of the appassimento method, brings a philosophy rooted in patience, purity, and terroir transparency. His approach begins in the vineyard, where meticulous bunch selection and careful monitoring of ripeness ensure that only the most expressive grapes begin the Amarone journey.

Located in the heart of Valpolicella Classico, Zýmē works with a mosaic of hillside parcels rich in limestone, clay, and ancient rock, soils that give the wines their hallmark depth and mineral tension. The cellar is a fusion of modernity and tradition, where long, natural fermentations and extended élevage create Amarone wines that are simultaneously powerful, elegant, and unmistakably Zýmē. Gaspari’s wines are revered worldwide for their purity of fruit, structural precision, and ability to age for decades with grace.

The 2020 Amarone Classico from Zýmē is a glorious, richly textured wine that embodies the precision and artistry of Gaspari’s team. Intense and expressive from the first swirl, it displays savoury dark fruit, leather, balsamic notes, and deeply perfumed dried dark fruit—an unmistakable signature of the estate’s meticulous bunch-by-bunch selection for their ultra premium wines. On the palate, the harmony is remarkable. The flavours mirror the aromatics perfectly: dark fruit, savoury undertones, dried figs and cherries, sweet spices, and a beautifully integrated balsamic lift. The richness and concentration are balanced by impeccable structure, making this a wine of both immediacy and immense longevity. Enjoy over the next 30 years as it continues to gain complexity and depth. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2020

Tenuta Santa Maria Valverde is a small, boutique estate producing just 4,000 individually numbered bottles of Amarone each vintage. They’re located high in the hills above Marano di Valpolicella, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico zone northwest of Verona. Their vineyards sit at roughly 500 metres elevation, making them some of the highest in the entire appellation. These steep, terraced slopes—rich in limestone and ancient volcanic soils—benefit from excellent drainage and cool mountain breezes flowing down from the Lessinia plateau. This elevated setting naturally enhances freshness, aromatic definition, and long aging potential, giving the estate’s Amarone its hallmark elegance and finely textured structure.

The 2020 Amarone Classico is a beautifully expressive and refined wine, opening with an elegant, rustic bouquet of dark cherry, dried fruit, potpourri, graphite, plum, and cherry Danish. The nose is layered and perfumed, offering both delicacy and depth. On the palate, it’s incredibly graceful—spicy dried fruit, fine light-textured tannins, and a whisper-soft, ballet-like elegance that glides effortlessly. This is an Amarone that speaks softly yet confidently, showcasing purity, aromatic complexity, and impeccable balance. Structured for longevity, the 2020 can be cellared for 25 years or more, evolving in nuance and finesse as it ages. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Le Guaite di Noemi Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Le Guaite di Noemi is one of Valpolicella’s most exciting new-generation wineries, led by the talented and visionary Noemi Pizzighella, who has quickly earned a reputation for crafting Amarone of precision, purity, and remarkable finesse. Working with high-altitude, terraced vineyards in the hills of Mezzane di Sotto, Noemi oversees every stage of production with an artisanal touch—from meticulous bunch selection to long, natural fermentations and careful élevage. Her wines are admired for their tension, aromatic lift, and quiet power, delivering both complexity and elegance without excess.

The 2020 Amarone from Le Guaite di Noemi may be the finest vintage expression I’ve tasted from this talented up-and-coming winemaker. Still years away from bottling and release, it already shows exceptional promise as a top-of-class interpretation of Amarone. The nose opens with a fresh breeze of fig trees, dried figs, plum, dark cherries, and layered dried dark fruit. Complex accents of cypress, graphite minerality, and a touch of orange rind add remarkable depth and sophistication.

On the palate, the wine is harmonious, soft, and beautifully textured, with tannins that are already finely integrated despite its youth. The structure is outstanding—firm yet elegant—and the complexity unfolding at this early stage speaks to Noemi’s craftsmanship and the strength of the 2020 vintage. This is an extraordinary early showing of what will undoubtedly become a profound, age-worthy Amarone. Tasted February 2025. 97+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Vigna ‘800 Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico Riserva ‘Virgo Moron’ 2020

Vigna ‘800 is a family-run estate rooted in the historic hills of Negrar di Valpolicella in the heart of the Classico zone, where Amarone has been crafted and perfected for generations. The winery focuses on small-batch, terroir-driven wines that honour the region’s centuries-old winemaking culture. Known for purity, minerality, and complexity, Vigna ‘800 consistently produces Amarone that beautifully balances richness with freshness.

Virgo Moron Riserva 2020 is an intriguing and deeply complex Amarone, opening with a layered bouquet of dark and dried fruits, interwoven with graphite minerality, earthiness, and delicate balsamic and savoury accents. The aromatic depth is captivating, offering both power and refinement.

On the palate, the wine is richly textured yet balanced, with the dried-fruit character supported by savoury undertones and mineral lift. Everything is harmonious, polished, and beautifully composed—an exceptional Riserva that speaks clearly of its Classico hillside origins. Built for longevity, but immediately accessible, this is a wine to savour over the next couple decades. Enjoy 2026–2040. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Roccolo Grassi Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG 2020

Roccolo Grassi is located just outside the Valpolicella Classico zone in Mezzane di Sotto, an eastern valley renowned for producing some of the region’s most refined and distinctive wines. Established in 1996 by Bruno Sartori, the estate takes its name from Roccolo Grassi, their most important vineyard and the source of fruit for their flagship Amarone and Valpolicella.

The family farms 16 hectares of vineyards in Val di Mezzane, situated between 200 and 300 metres elevation. The soils here are a compelling mix of volcanic basalt and stony red and black clays, a combination that imparts both mineral tension and depth to their wines. The valley enjoys a cool mesoclimate, influenced by cooling air descending from the Lessini Mountains, alongside lower-than-average rainfall—conditions that promote slow, even ripening.

Roccolo Grassi Amarone 2020 is a beautifully expressive and impeccably composed wine, opening with meaty, graphite, fig, plum, and spice notes lifted by a touch of balsamic complexity. The aromatics are deep and savoury, yet elegant. On the palate, gorgeous integration and harmony, with plush dark fruit, savoury nuances, and a refined mineral backbone. The balance is exceptional, and the structure—powerful yet polished—demonstrates the precision and character that define Roccolo Grassi’s style. A fantastic, complex, and deeply satisfying Amarone, and one of the standout wines of the 2020 vintage. Built to age gracefully for decades. Enjoy 2026 – 2050. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Secondo Marco Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2020 (Preview Blend)

Located in Fumane, in the heart of the Valpolicella Classico area between Lake Garda and the ancient city of Verona, Secondo Marco’s vineyards benefit from a uniquely balanced microclimate. Warm breezes rise from Lake Garda each morning, while cool air descends from the Lessini Mountains in the late afternoon—an oscillation that promotes gradual, even ripening and preserves vibrant natural acidity. Combined with the valley’s mineral-rich soils and Marco Speri’s distinctive “Y-shaped” pergola training system, this setting creates an ideal environment for producing concentrated yet remarkably fresh and harmonious wines.

Marco Speri’s winemaking philosophy is both patient and highly precise. Each varietal is vinified and aged separately, often for many years, and blended only once he deems every component to have reached an optimal point for integration. This meticulous, nearly decade-long approach is central to the expressive, structured, and elegant Amarone wines that define the Secondo Marco style.

For this year’s Anteprima, Marco prepared an educated preview blend of the 2020 Amarone—an early indication of the final wine—though all components continue aging independently. The definitive cuvée will only be assembled once Marco determines they have harmonized fully, likely within the next 1–2 years. This thoughtful process mirrors the philosophy behind the estate’s premium Amarone, crafted from vineyards just below the Speri family’s iconic Sant’Urbano cru.

The 2020 vintage shows tremendous promise. Light ruby and beautifully transparent in the glass, this early composition is remarkably elegant, immediately expressive with a medley of sweet spices, red and dark fruits, menthol, and lifted floral tones. There is a striking freshness that frames the fruit, carrying through to a poised and finely textured palate. The structure already hints at Marco Speri’s stylistic direction: refined, linear, and impeccably balanced, leaning toward finesse rather than sheer power. The tannins are soft and integrated even at this stage, and the aromatic complexity suggests what an exciting final blend this will become once the individual lots have reached full harmony.

A superb early indication of another outstanding Amarone from Secondo Marco, beautifully structured, elegant, and destined to evolve into a standout vintage once assembled. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Sicily

Sicily stands today as one of the most dynamic and exciting wine regions in the world, where ancient vineyards and indigenous varieties meet modern precision and vision. From volcanic slopes to coastal plains, the island’s diversity is unmatched, producing wines of striking purity, energy, and character. The top Sicilian wines featured here demonstrate how restraint, altitude, and terroir sensitivity can yield expressions that are both powerful and remarkably elegant. These are wines that redefine expectations—Mediterranean in soul, yet international in their finesse and structure.

Some of the most compelling Carricante-based wines I tasted include:

Tornatore Zottorinotto 2021 – 100% Carricante from Etna Bianco DOC; sleek and powerful, ripe orchard fruit and spice with laser-like acidity and a flinty core. Pair with: swordfish carpaccio, grilled calamari, or Sicilian lemon chicken. Tasted May 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Tornatore Pietrarizzo Bianco 2022 – A single-site Carricante showcasing stone fruit, floral blossom, steely minerality, and a salty edge. Pair with: fresh oysters, seared scallops, or ricotta-stuffed zucchini flowers. Tasted May 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Vivera Salisire Contrada Martinella 2019 – High-altitude Carricante; fragrant with ripe apple, pastry, and sea breeze. Vibrant and textured with great energy. Pair with: baked seabass with fennel, or citrus risotto. Tasted May 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Terra Costantino deAetna Etna Bianco 2023 – 80% Carricante, 15% Catarratto, 5% Minnella. Expressive, structured, and beautifully balanced.  Complex bouquet with stone fruit, orchard fruit, pastries, and Mediterranean floral notes. Pair with: grilled octopus, shrimp risotto, or aged caciocavallo. Tasted May 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Terra Costantino Contrada Blandano Etna Bianco 2021 – 90% Carricante, 10% Catarratto. Zesty, layered stone fruit with excellent length. Pair with: tuna tartare, herb-roasted chicken, or Sicilian caponata. Tasted May 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Nerello Mascalese, often likened to Pinot Noir for its pale color and aromatic nuance, stood out among Sicilian reds. Here are a few must-try expressions:

Benanti Contrada Monte Serra 2023 Etna Rosso DOC – Elegant with red cherry, plum, sandalwood, and volcanic spice.  Harmonious and refreshing. Pair with: mushroom risotto, grilled lamb chops, or Sicilian eggplant parmigiana. Tasted May 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Girolamo Russo San Lorenzo Piano Delle Colombe 2022 Etna Rosso DOC – Plum, spice, graphite. Powerful, with great structure for long term aging.  Patience will reward. Pair with: wild boar ragu, roast duck, or grilled beef tagliata. Tasted May 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Graci Arcuria “Sopra Il Pozzo” 2020 – Only made in top vintages; this “selezione della selezione” is Graci’s flagship Cru wine, intended to highlight the volcanic minerality of Etna terroir. Sourced from a tiny ~1–1.5 ha parcel within the Arcurìa cru on the northern slopes of Mount Etna (600–700 m elevation), the vineyard was selected for its unique “rifusa” soils composed of alternating volcanic sand and lava stone that help produce well structured and deeply mineral wines. Brandied cherries, plum, spice, leather, sandalwood, and graphite.  Rich yet elegant, with great intensity, well‑structured with vibrant acidity, marked minerality thanks to its volcanic soil provenance, tannins are beautifully integrated. Complex and simply outstanding. Pair with: veal involtini, porcini tagliatelle, or grilled lamb with rosemary. Tasted May 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Donnafugata Cuordilava Dolce & Gabbana 2020 – 100% Nerello Mascalese Etna Rosso DOC – Garnet colour, the nose brings expressive brandied cherry, cola, sweet spices, figs, & sandalwood.  Luscious and refreshing with polished tannins and a deep core of fruit and spice.  Pair with: Slow-braised lamb shanks with rosemary and Sicilian olives, or wild mushroom risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano. The wine’s depth, warm spice, and polished texture beautifully complement earthy, umami-rich dishes and bold Mediterranean flavours. Tasted May 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Another red not to miss:

Gulfi Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2020 – 70% Nero d’Avola and 30% Frappato. Sourced from Sicily’s only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG, from Vigna Stidda single vineyard located in southeast Sicily in the Iblei Mountains. Ruby colour, complex profile with plum, floral cherry, chocolate, balsamic, with bright acidity and charm. Pair with: pork tenderloin, tomato-based pasta, or grilled sausage and peppers. Tasted May 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Principe G 2022 – 100% Grillo, 4 days skin contact, lees aging and stirring for one month, fermented in concrete and aged in stainless steel creating a layered, autolytic, and expressive wine that’s fragrant, with expressive floral, yellow fruit and Mediterranean herb finish. Pair with: roast poultry, aged pecorino, or creamy seafood pasta. Tasted May 2025. 94 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Together, these regions offer an extraordinary invitation to explore the full spectrum of what world-class wine can be today. From Canada’s finely etched cool-climate precision, to the timeless brilliance of Champagne, the mineral-driven whites of Collio, the energy and authenticity of Sicily, the refined sparkle of Franciacorta, and the depth and gravitas of Valpolicella, each region tells its own compelling story through the glass. What unites them is a shared pursuit of excellence—wines shaped by place, crafted with intent, and capable of standing confidently on the global stage. I encourage readers to seek out these wines, taste with curiosity, and experience firsthand the remarkable diversity, character, and quality these regions continue to deliver.