Italy’s best white wines which you’ve probably never heard of…

May 2025

Written by Matt Steeves

When people think of Italy, and the wines they produce, most picture the iconic ABCs of Italian wines… Amarone, Barolo/Brunello, and Chianti…all red wines, high quality wines which the world has come to love for decades. Given this admiration for Italian wines, you can generally find a decent selection of any of those storied wines on the shelves of your local wine shop or at your favourite restaurant. When it comes to Italian white wines, Prosecco and Pinot Grigio have become household names in North America, given their prominent availability, crowd-pleasing nature, and low price points. Unlike the iconic kings of Italian red wines, very few have discovered where many of Italy’s finest white wines are produced… This article will explore a lesser-known jewel of Italy — the elegant white wines from the Collio DOC in northern Italy.

Collio DOC is nestled in the far northeast of Italy, along the Slovenian border, at the foothills of the Julian Alps and near the shores of the Adriatic Sea. A 2.5-hour train ride east from Verona takes you to the city of Trieste, a beautiful city with a strong Central European feel, thanks to its proximity to Slovenia and Croatia. Once the main seaport of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Trieste is now home to the iconic Illy Coffee company and serves as the gateway to the nearby Collio DOC wine region, just a short drive away.

The name “Collio” translates to “hilly area” or “little hills” in Italian—aptly describing the region’s landscape, as all vineyards within Collio DOC must be situated on hills to be part of the denomination. When driving through this small region you quickly appreciate its name, as there are small undulating hills in every direction with the backdrop of the majestic snowcapped Julian Alps to the north.

Collio DOC is renowned in Italy and neighbouring countries where their wines are mostly sold and consumed. Upwards of 85% of Collio’s wines are consumed domestically, leaving very little for international markets, especially ones as far away as Canada. So if you haven’t had the pleasure of trying Collio DOC wines, don’t take it personally. It’s not you — it’s them. Most bottles are spoken for well before they even think about crossing the Atlantic.

The Collio DOC region is renowned for its production of white wines, with approximately 88% of the vineyards dedicated to white varietals and the remaining 12% to reds. This article highlights the exceptional white wines of Collio DOC. If you haven’t yet explored Collio’s whites — including their unique skin-fermented ‘orange’ wines — now’s the time to discover some of Italy’s most complex and expressive bottles.

Collio DOC wines are like the hidden trattorias in a quiet Italian village—places where locals gather, not because they’re trendy or flashy, but because they offer something irreplaceable. These trattorias don’t boast Michelin stars or billboards on the main roads, but they hold the soul of the village in every dish. The walls are lined with history, the recipes handed down through generations, and the food? Unpretentious but unforgettable, with layers of flavor that speak to the terroir, crafted with care and respect for tradition.

In much the same way, Collio DOC wines aren’t found on every wine list or wine boutique shelf. They don’t seek the spotlight. Yet, for those who know where to look—who have visited the hills of Collio or tasted its essence—they offer a unique experience with a quiet elegance. These wines are about place. They’re built with structure, layered complexity, and a depth that reflects the unique soils and microclimates of this revered region. Like a meal at that local trattoria, drinking Collio DOC wines is an experience that transports you.

The importance of Terroir

So what makes Collio DOC wines so special — and so coveted by those in the know? It all begins with the region’s distinctive terroir, especially the unique Ponca soils that define its rolling vineyards. Formed over millions of years from ancient marine deposits, Ponca is a blend of calcareous clay and sandstone, rich in minerals like calcium carbonate. This unique soil composition gives rise to wines with remarkable structure and aging potential — a signature trait that sets Collio DOC apart and adds to its undeniable allure.

Among the stars of Collio DOC are Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla, and Picolit, each offering its own unique expression of the region. In total there are 12 white varietals grown in Collio and they all bear the unmistakable “fingerprint” of Collio DOC. The wines are nuanced by the diversity of vineyard locations, each with its own terroir, influenced by elevation, aspect and corresponding sun exposure. Add to that the influence of winemaking techniques, like the skin-fermented Ribolla Gialla (which over the past two decade has become a popular expression in the region) — and you’ll discover a fascinating array of expressions for each varietal, all within this charming and compact wine region.

On my most recent visit I tasted over two hundred wines including numerous flights of Friulano, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Malvasia, and Ribolla Gialla from a range of vintages, including several back vintages. I was struck by the remarkable diversity within these varietals, alongside the evident structural consistencies and the inevitable vintage variations. While the latest commercially available vintage, 2023, produced impressive wines throughout the region, it did not quite reach the heights of the outstanding 2021 vintage. 2022, 2020, and 2019 all produced impressive wines in all styles, and with each taste of an older wine, a distinct transformation became apparent—greater harmony, depth, and complexity emerged, rendering the experience increasingly pleasurable and highlighting the intrinsic value of cellar-aged Collio wines. This phenomenon was particularly pronounced in the Collio Bianco DOC blends, where the indigenous Friulano varietal often plays a central role, accompanied by other local varieties. In vertical tastings of Collio Bianco DOC, it was always the bottles with extended cellar time that revealed their true potential, showing impressive complexity, structure, and balance.

Tasting Cru vineyard expressions of Collio Bianco from producers like Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore with their Col Disore Collio Bianco, Castello di Spessa and their San Serff Collio Bianco, Renato Keber with their Zegla Collio Bianco, Jermann’s Capo Martino, Raccaro’s Collio Bianco from the slopes of Monte Quarin, and Bolzicco’s Vigne da Mont Collio Bianco DOC – these all showed the exceptional quality from their impressive single vineyards and a nod to the important role that Friulano can play in expressing a vineyard’s unique terroir.

Just as the aged Collio Bianco expressions I tasted were all impressive, many of the Ribolla Gialla skin-fermented wines I sampled were aged anywhere from three to eight years before release, and as expected, those with more years in the cellar exhibited a marked improvement—more expressive, complex, and harmonious. Producers like Primosic, with three active generations of winemaking in the region, have been producing some of the finest skin-fermented white wines in Collio. When I tasted their 2019 Ribolla Gialla Riserva (which I rated 94+ points) it demonstrated the cumulation of decades focused on producing high quality skin-fermented wines. Learning from ancient techniques in Georgia, they experimented with all aspects of their winemaking and have fine-tuned their techniques while building on their deep understanding of their unique terroir around their winery in Oslavia, which includes east and south facing vineyards.

Driving from Russiz Superiore up the winding road toward Oslavia, I felt the land shift. The sun lingered on the south, and east-facing slopes below, bathing the vines in golden warmth. But as I crested the hills into Oslavia, the light faded and cool evening air had already settled in. Here, the sun touches the vineyards differently, less, sometimes not much at all. And so, the winemakers listened to the land. In this cooler light, they found truth in skin-fermented whites, wines that speak with depth and texture, shaped by shadow as much as sun. Oslavia has earned its name through this quiet revolution. Given these different conditions, winemakers there have leaned into producing skin-fermented white wines which they believe best represent the potential for their terroir, and they’ve grown a great reputation for that.

Another notable producer, Paraschos, from neighbouring San Floriano del Collio, in the far north east of Collio, has grown a reputation for producing expressive, bold, skin-fermented wines that don’t hold anything back. Their direct press wines, such as the Paraschos 2022 Sauvignon Blanc Riserva are outstanding too. Sourced from a new vineyard in their portfolio near Gradis’ciutta, named JZB for Jazbine that means Giasbana, the small part of the village of San Floriano del Collio where the vineyard is located. This expression of Sauvignon Blanc highlights the ability they have to make world-class wines across their portfolio, both skin fermented and direct press. Tasting the Paraschos Riserva reminded me of tasting Robert Mondavi’s i-Block Fume Blanc from the iconic To Kalon vineyard in Oakville Napa Valley. Continents apart, but each at the top of their game from important Cru vineyards. I’d love to taste these two great wines together one day. Paraschos 2022 earning 95+ points from me when I tasted it in February 2025. This is an intriguing wine that I plan to follow as it evolves over the next decade and as Paraschos’ winemaker fine-tunes working with their new Cru vineyard.

In Collio, aged Sauvignon Blanc defies expectations. At Borgo Conventi, I tasted a flight spanning 2023 to 2013, sourced from seven distinct hillside vineyards, each harvested at peak ripeness over two weeks. The wines revealed consistent structure, with tropical fruit, florals, and subtle herbs. As they aged, honeyed, nutty, and almond nuances emerged, deepening their complexity.

Similarly, Villa Vasi’s 2023 and 2021 Sauvignon Blancs were vibrant, expressive, and balanced, with herbaceous notes and crisp orchard fruit, balanced by refreshing acidity. Established in the last decade, this young family winery is showing promise for crafting expressive well structured wines that reflect their terroir with precision. I look forward to tracking their evolution in the years ahead as they enter their second decade of operations and keep fine-tuning how best to showcase their unique terroir.

Sturm’s 2023 Sauvignon Organic is a standout from Collio—a world apart and refreshing contrast from the grassy punch of New Zealand styles. Sourced from 35-year-old vines high in the Russiz hills, this organic wine hums with freshness, depth, and quiet power. The Sturm family, now three generations deep in Zegla Cru, continues to craft wines of striking elegance. Tasting their 2023 Sauvignon Organic in February 2025 I found it to be an exceptional wine with years ahead of it. Earning 94+ points. Seek it out; Collio speaks a different Sauvignon language.

The ability of wines to age whilst retaining their structure has always been an indicator of the quality of a particular wine, often showcasing the winemaker’s expertise but more than ever it’s a direct correlation to the provenance of the grapes. Better vineyard sites producing better wines. Terroir is key and since every vineyard has its own identity, it’s great when winemakers are able to let the terroir shine through. This significant terroir influence is abundantly apparent in Collio. Expressive and beautifully structured wines capable of cellar aging, and a high level of quality across the board which truly sets this region apart.

Collio DOC wines may be scarce on local shelves across Canada, but when they do appear, they’re worth a try! These wines have captivated Italians for years— discover one for yourself and you’ll taste why.

So, the next time you spot a bottle of Collio DOC wine, seize the opportunity. Let your palate explore some of Italy’s finest white wines.

Here are a few exceptional wines I highly recommend seeking out if you’re lucky enough to find them in your market.

Castello di Spessa Collio Bianco DOC San Serff 2015 – A blend of Pinot Bianco, Fruilano, Sauvginon Blanc. This premium offering is aged 8 years prior to release, something that may seem bizarre for other white wines of the world but not for Collio DOC wines, especially their Collio Bianco blends which tend to really shine with a decade or more of cellar refinement. Light gold colour, the nose has great intensity with a complex bouquet of orchard fruit, tropical and floral notes. The palate offers refreshing orchard and citrus fruit chalky minerality, and a long mineral finish. Youthful with a long life ahead of it. Enjoy over the next twenty years. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Castello di Spessa Joy Pinot Grigio Collio DOC 2022 – 14.5% – Light copper colour, fragrant and complex nose offering stonefruit, orchard fruit, strawberry, cherry, peach, floral blossoms, Cyprus (balsamic) herbs. Fresh and mouthwatering, an energetic and lively Pinot Grigio with great structure and overall complexity. Tasted February 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Gradis Ciutta Friulano 2023 – Golden yellow, the nose shows rich citrus, tropical, mango, canned peaches, tomato leaf, and almond. Delicious flavour profile with sweet stone fruit, refreshing acidity, mineral persisting on the long clean finish. 92+ points. Tasted February 2025. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Primosic Ribolla Gialla Riserva 2019 Collio DOC – a beautiful expression of Primosic’s skin fermented Ribolla Gialla, which the the past two decades they’ve honed their technique and aligned with the terroir to produce some of the most vibrant, elegant, and harmonious wines in Collio. Tasted in a T95 glass, designed specifically for their skin fermented (orange wine) Ribolla Gialla, the copper colour invites the nose which reveals a complex bouquet of honeyed stone fruit, citrus, orange rind, and savoury balsamic notes. The palate is elegant and layered repeating the aromatic profile with great length on the finish. Enjoy over the next decade. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Sturm Sauvignon 2023 – Everyone has to try the unique expressions of Collio Sauvignon to see for themselves just how great they are. Completely different than New Zealand’s often pungent style, Collio Sauvignon Blanc like that from Sturm and this organic one in particular which was sourced from a Cru vineyard in the Russiz area of Collio from 35 year old vines planted high on the hill. Light gold colour, the nose is quite rich, with honeyed notes, citrus, almond biscotti, pear and floral notes. Remarkably rich, with refreshing exotic fruit, zesty chamomile tea, almond, and pronounced minerality persisting. A stellar expression of Collio Sauvignon which highlights the unique character of this varietal. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Paraschos, from San Floriano del Collio, in the far north east of Collio, has grown a reputation for producing expressive, bold, skin-fermented wines that don’t hold anything back. Their direct press wines are exceptional too, such as the Paraschos 2022 Sauvignon Riserva. Sourced from a new Cru vineyard in their portfolio near Gradis’ciutta, named JZB for Jazbine that means Giasbana, the small part of the village of San Floriano del Collio where the vineyard is located. They waited for the grapes to achieve perfect maturation at harvest, then their low intervention winemaking took over…allowing spontaneous fermentation on wild yeasts (no commercial yeast in their winery), with two years of aging in large Slovenian oak barrels (10-25hl) on fine lees. Bottled without filtration resulting in a super expressive wine, showing ripe fruits, stone fruits, exotic fruits, citrus zest, herbs, and a touch of chamomile tea. This expression of Sauvignon is pure terroir and highlights the ability they have to make world-class wines across their portfolio. This is an intriguing wine that I plan to follow as it evolves over the next decade and as winemaker Jannis Paraschos fine-tunes working with this impressive new Cru vineyard in their portfolio. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points. Matt Steeves – www.quercusvino.ca

Bolzicco Collio Bianco DOC “Vigne da Mont” 2021. From a sun-drenched, south-facing vineyard on the flank of Monte Quarin, nestled within the commune of Cormòns and brushing the Slovenian border, Bolzicco’s single-vineyard Collio Bianco DOC “Vigne da Mont” is a masterclass in harmony, depth, and regional expression. A blend of 60% Friulano and 40% Ribolla Gialla, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 12 months in seasoned barriques. On the nose, it opens with waves of ripe orchard and stone fruits—yellow apple, lemon curd, and dried apricot—woven together with nuances of almond croissant and delicate baking spice. The palate is both taut and generous: a textured interplay of freshness and richness, underpinned by a vein of minerality that lingers gracefully on the long, persistent finish. “Vigne da Mont” captures the essence of Collio’s Ponca soils and elevates it through thoughtful winemaking. This is a wine that is already stunning but promises to evolve beautifully over the next two decades. A benchmark Collio Bianco from a five star vintage. Tasted February 2025. 94+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Livon Malvasia Collio DOC ‘Soluna’ – Sourced from the esteemed Ruttars Cru in the northwestern reaches of Collio, in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s Malvasia “Soluna” is a strikingly expressive and terroir-driven white that captures the wild elegance of its origin. On the nose, Soluna unfurls with a smoky allure—fumé, wood smoke, and flint—layered over ripe stone fruit, apricot, apple, and wild herbs. This savory aromatic complexity offers a deeply evocative first impression. The palate is no less compelling: vibrant orchard fruits—pear, apple—give way to honeyed stone fruit richness, balanced by a firm streak of saline minerality. The finish is long, textured, and mouthwatering, echoing the wine’s smoky and mineral undertones with a persistent, salty lift. A refined and characterful expression of Malvasia, Soluna is drinking beautifully now but has the structure and depth to evolve over the coming years. Tasted February 2025. 93+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Livon Friulano Collio DOC “Manditocai” 2022 – From the revered Manditocai vineyard in Ruttars, nestled in the northwestern reaches of Collio in Dolegna del Collio, Livon’s 2022 Friulano “Manditocai” delivers a sophisticated and deeply rooted expression of the region’s signature white varietal. With its south and southwest exposure and classic Ponca soils (marl and sandstone), the site offers ideal conditions for ripening Friulano with both richness and tension. Fermented half in French oak barriques and half in stainless steel, and aged for 8 months before blending, the wine achieves a seamless balance of fruit purity and refined structure. Pale gold colour, the nose is layered and evocative, opening with fragrant floral notes, Marigold blossoms, summer meadow, stonefruit, touch of petrol, and a faint herbaceous note completes the bouquet. More yellow flower, citrus, peach, and minerality on palate. It’s fresh and energetic. Friulano is a great variety for representing terroir and Manditocai 2022 shines bright with precision and poise. Tasted February 2025. 93 points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Marco Felluga Russiz Superiore Collio Bianco ‘Col Disôre’ 2021 – Nestled in the picturesque hills of Collio DOC in Italy, the Russiz Superiore Cru vineyard has been in the Felluga family since 1967, although the estate’s roots trace back to 1648, when Russiz Superiore was first identified. Now the family’s sixth generation winemaker, Ilaria Felluga leads the winery including the production of their Collio Bianco ‘Col Disôre’ meaning the highest part of the hill.

Col Disôre is a blend of Pinot Bianco, Ribolla Gialla, Friulano, and Sauvignon. Fermented in oak, and aged on its lees for a year before bottling. Produced only in the best vintages, for which 2021 was a steller vintage throughout Collio and this blend beautifully showcases the strength and elegance of the vintage. Super elegant profile, it’s harmonious and lively offering a fragrant bouquet of orchard fruit and stone fruit, lemon zest, and acacia blossom. This wine is showing wonderful now and will only continue to gain complexity over the next decade and beyond. Enjoy 2025-2040. Tasted February 2025. 95+ points.  Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

Jermann Capo Martino 2021: A Benchmark Bianco blend from the heart of Collio

Nestled in the heart of Collio, Jermann’s Capo Martino takes its name from the estate’s 7.5-hectare vineyard, where the land’s steep, sun-drenched slopes, facing south and southeast, capture every precious ray of light. This harmonious incline, kissed by the morning sun, nurtures grapes that ripen with a rare balance of power and finesse, crafting a wine of remarkable depth and character. The vineyard, planted with a rich tapestry of indigenous white varietals: Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia, and Picolit, is a true expression of Collio’s heritage.

It opens with a fragrant symphony: ripe orchard fruits, tropical bursts of pineapple and mango, delicate floral blossoms, and a whisper of baking spice. The defining note, however, is a distinct minerality, a briny, sea-shell essence, that speaks of the land beneath, the Ponca soils that lend this wine its profound sense of place. Capo Martino is more than a wine; it is Collio in a glass, a beautiful, crystalline reflection of this storied vineyard and its ancient soils. On the palate, Capo Martino unfolds with impressive body and a creamy, almost silken texture, buoyed by a refreshing streak of acidity. Each sip repeats the promise of the nose, delivering a harmonious interplay between the richness of ripe fruit and the refreshing clarity of the land’s mineral core. More than just a blend, Capo Martino is the embodiment of Jermann’s dedication to quality and tradition. A wine that doesn’t merely speak of its origins, but sings them. For those in search of an exceptional expression of Collio’s soul, this is a bottle that encapsulates the very best of the region, offering a journey into its terroir with every pour. Tasted February 2025. 96+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.qercusvino.ca

Cruna di Subida Ribolla Gialla 2022 – From the passionate hands behind the Cruna di Subida Wine Country House B&B comes a standout example of Ribolla Gialla that speaks eloquently of place and precision. The 2022 vintage opens with a beautifully layered nose—ripe orchard fruit, mandarin orange, and juicy stone fruit weave seamlessly with floral hints, a touch of honey, and a clean, saline minerality that evokes the cool air and ancient Ponca soils of the Collio hills. On the palate, it’s just as compelling: vibrant and textured with a lively energy, balancing ripeness with a firm spine of acidity reminiscent of raw Chablis. That steely tension, a hallmark of the region’s marlstone soils, gives the wine structure and age-worthy promise, while keeping it thrillingly drinkable now. This is not just a wine—it’s an invitation to discover a place. Cruna di Subida has crafted a Ribolla Gialla that reflects both their terroir and their hospitality. A must-visit destination, and a bottle worth seeking out. Tasted February 2025. 92+ points. Matt Steeves – http://www.quercusvino.ca

If you’re seeking an authentic escape immersed in beauty, history, and world-class hospitality, Collio’s agritourism experiences should be on your radar. Off the beaten path, these charming accommodations offer a peaceful retreat surrounded by vineyards and rolling hills, perfect for wine lovers, food enthusiasts, and cyclists alike. During my recent stay at Cruna di Subida, the Wine Country House, I was amazed by the modern comfort and breathtaking views of the vineyards and proximity to other world-class dining and wineries. The service was impeccable, with delightful culinary treats awaiting me each morning and evening—whether it was a gourmet breakfast or an exquisite aperitif at sunset. For an unforgettable stay, surrounded by exceptional wine, food, and natural beauty, Cruna di Subida is an experience you won’t want to miss.

Whether tasting the vibrant Sauvignon Blanc from producers like Paraschos and Strum, or experiencing the harmonious complexity of a well-aged Collio Bianco, Collio DOC wines captivate with their freshness, structure, and transformative aging potential. With an emphasis on craftsmanship and a deep respect for the land, these wines showcase the region’s focus on quality over quantity.

So, if you happen to come across a bottle of Collio DOC wines in your local wine shop, don’t hesitate—these wines, though elusive, offer an unparalleled taste of one of Italy’s finest wine regions.

Cheers!

Matt Steeves

Matt Steeves is a wine writer, on-air Sommelier (TV and radio), and international wine judge. Follow his tasting notes and wine adventures at www.quercusvino.ca.